/ the lakes - route selection.

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snomad 16 Apr 2019

So, some questions on crag / route selection for the lakes:

(1) Are grades harder in the Lakes (than the peak / north wales)?  For some reason I often get my ass kicked on routes that should be well able to do in the Lakes.  I'm not just talking about the mountain crag / multi pitch factor.  But the individual routes / pitches. Just wondering if it's me / different rock type etc. OR if it's true!

(2) Newbie question.  Do I want to avoid N facing crags at this early stage in the year?  (Due to greeness / that unnerving invisible crag slime) - you know what I mean.  

Thank you!

Mark Eddy 16 Apr 2019
In reply to snomad:

I find that here in the Lakes the routes are slightly harder than similarly graded route in N Wales.

It is a bit early for north facing crags purely from a keeping warm point of view.

Pursued by a bear 16 Apr 2019
In reply to snomad:

Curiously, I sometimes - only sometimes - found Lakes grades a nadge easier than expected; but that's something that might just as easily be down to me and the style of climbing I like and the routes I chose as anything else.  Go with an open mind and see what you find.

As for north-facing crags, that depends on what you're after.  A classic at the easy end of the spectrum ought to be do-able if you dress appropriately, something harder that involves both leader and second getting overly parky would be best avoided.  And Dow Crag, though not north-facing, is a notoriously chilly spot if the weather is being traditional.

T.

Monk 16 Apr 2019
In reply to snomad:

I don't find lakes routes hard for the grade, but depends on the rock type a bit. North facing crags will be pretty cold, but it's very dry for the time of year at the moment, so seepage should be lower than average. Personally, I'll be heading for somewhere sunny at the moment. 

Jon Stewart 16 Apr 2019
In reply to snomad:

> So, some questions on crag / route selection for the lakes:

> (1) Are grades harder in the Lakes (than the peak / north wales)?  For some reason I often get my ass kicked on routes that should be well able to do in the Lakes.  I'm not just talking about the mountain crag / multi pitch factor.  But the individual routes / pitches. Just wondering if it's me / different rock type etc. OR if it's true!

I think Lakes grades are pretty hard, in the E1-3 range where I'm familiar. Although I can name a few perfectly reasonable E3s, I can also think of many classic E1s that are proper nails. And E2s that are the living end. Have a go on The Bludgeon for tasters. It's a nice surprise when you find a softy though!

> (2) Newbie question.  Do I want to avoid N facing crags at this early stage in the year?  (Due to greeness / that unnerving invisible crag slime) - you know what I mean.  

Yep, minging. Go for sunshine unless it's actually hot.

Rog Wilko 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Monk:

I don't mean to quibble, but in my experience March and April are often the driest months of the year in the Lakes. I think this is partly owing to the fairly regularly occurring situation which we have had recently with a Baltic high giving easterly winds, becoming less humid as they cross the Pennines. As we often say when we get such a week of dry sunny weather in April - don't waste it, this may be summer.

pass and peak 17 Apr 2019
In reply to snomad:

Don't know about grades been any harder, but when I do occasionally climb in Wales I find there's more opportunity for protection at the same grade! As for North facing crags, I've been climbing in the lakes all of last week and purposely seeking out NW facing rock, sun at any time of year is no substitute when your been blasted by the freezing Baltic Easterly, coldest I've been all winter! For the most part the N facing crags are dry as its been very dry for a fortnight now, and you'll have the advantage of nice grippy cold rock and no sweaty hands! Enjoy 


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