The Bounder

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 Suncream 06 Aug 2019

I've just noticed The Bounder (E1 7a) in the guidebook. If I'm reading it correctly, one throws the rope over a spike of rock, and then climbs with this as a top rope, but it still counts as a trad lead?

Is this a legitimate technique to use on trad climbs? Are there any other instances of this?

In reply to Suncream:

"There is no feedback for this climb".

I bet there isn't.

In reply to the point in the OP; sure, see e.g. White Slab.

jcm

In reply to Suncream:

The spike is also used by Rope Trick (E2 5c) which is a great climb. We used the spike last time just for a taste of history although you can now protect the traverse using gear. Worth doing Firebird (E2 5c) while you’re on that Buttress, brilliant!

I’m not sure what ‘legitimate technique’ is, as long as you don’t damage the rock, do what you like.

 jon 06 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Not a spike of rock in this case, but an old peg: Flicker of Hope (E5 6b)

 thommi 06 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Sure the guide says something about this sort of thing for Maupassant at curbar? I couldn't see what it meant though at the time.... 

 Duncan Bourne 06 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

There is a video of Arlie Anderson demonstrating this technique on Promentory Traverse at Black Rocks in the Peak. Throwing a loop over a spike of dubious protection value. Not sure if it is online it was on one of Johnny Dawes old videos

 AndySL 06 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Second pitch of Amanita Muscarina (E4 6a) Lasso a rock spike up on the right before proceeding.

Post edited at 12:26
OP Suncream 06 Aug 2019

Ok thanks all, so it's just an advanced technique I've not come across. Presumably if you fell with the rope on a spike, it would do some damage to the rope?

 wilkie14c 06 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

The technique is so advanced it was developed before proper gear was invented 


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