Stupid Rock - Terrible British Rock Climbs from Mod to XS

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 harry leaver 19 Feb 2023

So We've had Classic Rock, Hard Rock and Extreme Rock, filled with days of glorious climbing, the kind of routes that people claim climbing is all about, lets try and make a collection of Britain's most horrible routes (Horrible in a 3 star, actually kind of fun, enjoyably painful way) 

All excellent climbs, i'd recommend to people, not anyone I liked . The kind of routes that are so absurdly bad, they transcend logic and are great fun, the kind that you stick your friend on with a a perverse grin and enjoy watching them struggle and curse your name.

I've picked a few, but I know there's more, can't wait to try some of your suggestions...

Post edited at 01:54
OP harry leaver 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Here's my List:

Un-Natural Act - I recommend a rack of hedge cutters, gloves and long sleeves to protect yourself from the brambles...

Helfenstien's Struggle - Doing it the regular way is too much fun, to really earn the Stupid Rock tick start up Wall End Flake Crack, traverse through the holly bush and then leap into helfenstiens struggle and then squirm to glory. The quintessential gritstone experience.

Seventies Style Wall - A Nice Boulder Problem, However I didn't like that it stopped so carried on up to the triangular ledge of bracken (e1/2 to here) and that is where the fun begins, wriggle and levitate - but don't try to hold anything because none of it is attached to the rock.

Turret Crack - A lovely lead but im talking about the descent next to it... Doing it under 10 seconds is fun, Under 5 and you have a stupid rock tick.

Tower Chimney - Go and find out for yourself - humbling

Runup - A lovely VS, going up, slide down on your bum like it's sledging and you'll see what i'm talking about. Try to avoid the metal spikes, I can't imagine they would be comfortable.

Little Gully - It doesn't seem to dry, its pretty horrendous, your better off going left when the climbing starts bridge up on crumbling holds and flop into a puddle and you'll find a #6 nut, one more hard move accesses 60m of un-protectable grass - enjoy

'C' Ordinary Route - A Lovely rock climb - in the dry - do it in the wet, in trainers and you'll find it much nicer - exclusively using the slippy bit of dual tex holds would be good training.

Sister of Mercy (Summer) - Don't... One of the few things I've done even I won't recommend to someone no matter how much I dislike them.

Thats 9 from me, what else deserves a place on stupid rock?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=6725#info

Post edited at 01:55
 Tony Buckley 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

> So We've had Classic Rock, Hard Rock and Extreme Rock, filled with days of glorious climbing

Classic Rock contains Great Gully (S) too.

T.

 smithg 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Anything in Coire Fee https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coire_fee-71/ as a summer route.

If you like mud, midgies and moss, you're in for a treat. 

(some good stories in some of the logbook comments from SS though).

In reply to harry leaver:

The Blind Buddha (E2 5a)

(Shudders remembering it)

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Also Zeppelin (E2 5b)

 John Kelly 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/walla_crag-740/walla_crag_gully-20...

A pleasant introduction to the genera 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/miners_crag-431/newlands_gully-389...

A much more serious affair - rubbly and fill with dead sheep

They say the gullys on haystack are a special type of hell.

 john arran 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

The Esoterica list in the old On Peak Rock guide is a fair place to look for some of the Peak District's offerings. Here's the vid of our somewhat loony day out some while ago:
https://m.epictv.com/media/podcast/esoterica-climbing-the-peak-districts-we...

 Doug 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I think the worst rockclimb I can remember was on the north face of Aonach dubh (Glencoe). Doesn't seem to be included on the UKC logbook (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/aonach_dubh-23162/ ) but the name was something like Alcoholic Arete & maybe VDiff. Loose & a not very good belay between the two pitches.

 Cusco 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

19th Nervous Breakdown, Black Crag (South Devon) - terrible in too many ways.

Inverted V, Stanage - as a visitor from the Southern Shire, I’d been looking to this since seeing it in Bill Birkett’s Classic Climbs in Great Britain and was left distinctly underwhelmed by polished grit. It left me yearning for Chudleigh…

Speaking of which, Loot, Chudleigh - polished limestone chimney/groove hell.

3
 Duncan Bourne 19 Feb 2023
In reply to john arran:

Mam Tor was high on my list for this thread. I (sensibly?) did Central Route in winter with a good covering of hard snow.

Another would be High Pasture in Cwm Idwyl

 deepsoup 19 Feb 2023
In reply to Cusco:

> Inverted V, Stanage

That's going to appear in in the forthcoming "Ruined Rock - Totally Trashed and Woefully Overrated British Rock Climbing from VD to E1"

3
 C Witter 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Some of these (e.g. brambles on route) just sound awful! Others, e.g. C Ordinary, are just great routes of their genre... done in bad conditions (which could apply to any route).

For something really claustrophic and wrong, how about: Monolith Crack (HS) or Lockwood's Chimney (VD)?

Then there's that route where you have to leap across a chasm to get to the start... a VS on the south coast? I've forgotten the name, sorry.

This seems a likely source of more stupidity: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/a_masochists_tour_of_cornw...

A few epic girdles would also surely make the genre, e.g. Miners' Girdle (VS 4c), though this is pretty tame compared to that extremely long "E1" on the south coast (c.1km girdle... )

My brain is like Swiss Cheese this morning, so strugging to remember names...!

2
In reply to harry leaver:

Would give Moss Ghyll 3 black spots as a rock climb.

How about Limestone Rain or others close by (Terminal Trajectory?) at Wharton Main?

Ferrous Buttress on Iron Crag, cautious to recommend as I really enjoyed it. No solid belays or gear, no solid abbing points. Like climbing a sugary rock waterfall.

DC

 Sean Kelly 19 Feb 2023
In reply to C Witter:

> For something really claustrophic and wrong, how about: Monolith Crack (HS) or Lockwood's Chimney (VD)?

That's the whole point of Lockwood's Chimney

> Then there's that route where you have to leap across a chasm to get to the start... a VS on the south coast? I've forgotten the name, sorry.

It could be Kinkyboots at Baggy or perhaps Quality Street at Berry Head.

Great Gully at Craig Yr Isfa is a must as is Clachaig Gully in Glencoe.

Heffelstein's I agree heartily is a desperate struggle for everyone except the anorexic.

There is a VS on Gimmer that is pretty awful, near Juniper Gully.

Lliwedd has a few few terrors for the uninitiated too.

Oh and an E3 at Wilton to the left of Constable's OH, an off-width flared bulge, the Grader?

Looking forward to see what other horrors emerge from the brambles!

And that long traverse is Wonderland. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/wonderland-3757...

Post edited at 10:53
 Rog Wilko 19 Feb 2023
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Thought it wouldn’t be long…..

 PaulJepson 19 Feb 2023
4
 Groundhog 19 Feb 2023
In reply to Sean Kelly:

"Lliwedd has a few few terrors for the uninitiated too."

Big Deal on Lliwedd West Buttress gets my vote. The 1972 guide which we used when we did it says    "A good climb with great continuity".  

Not how I would describe it.  

 beardy mike 19 Feb 2023
In reply to PaulJepson:

Oh come on,there are much better candidates in the Avon gorge than that. Gurgle girdle for starters. 80m of horizontal or descending traverse with gear every half pitch.

 C Witter 19 Feb 2023
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Ta Sean. Yep, Kinkyboots and Wonderland are the routes I couldn't remember this morning!

1
 Myfyr Tomos 19 Feb 2023
In reply to pancakeandchips:

You Philistine... 😉

Removed User 19 Feb 2023
 DaveHK 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Wild Roses (E1 5b)

Lives up to its name.


 petegunn 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Have you ever watched the superb Slackjaw film HardXS the film from some years back, it's excellent.

It's starts with this superb route on the Devon coast! Dave Thomas absolutely living it whilst Martin Perry's face at the top.of the route says it all haha, soooooo good 🤗

youtube.com/watch?v=sCbw0lsMxKE&

Post edited at 15:01
 alexm198 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Avernus (HVS 4c)

My climbing partner spoke to someone afterwards who exclaimed: “Great route! Did you take one ice axe or two?”

Reader, we had taken none. 

 Cusco 19 Feb 2023
In reply to petegunn:

Mick Fowler’s Breakaway. 🤣

 65 19 Feb 2023
In reply to Doug:

That sounds like Original Route which had a hilarious description in the old Crocket guide.

The Central Chimney on Cuneiform Buttress is best avoided. We escaped up it once when the slab pitch at the top of Raven’s Edge was slimy. Dangerously loose.

Clachaig Gully would get my vote.

I recall some of the easier routes at Creag Dhubh being vegetated horrors.

 tlouth7 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I'd definitely include Sifta's Quid Inside Route (S 3a)

 babymoac 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/waterstein_head-17762/waterstein_a...

One abortive attempt but strangely tempted to try again.....

 Rog Wilko 19 Feb 2023
In reply to tlouth7:

> I'd definitely include Sifta's Quid Inside Route (S 3a)

Do you know how it got its odd name?

 Michael Hood 19 Feb 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:

IIRC (from old blue? Roaches guide which I no longer have - before technical grades), someone bet Dave Salt (?) that there were no more routes to be had on the right side of the lower tier.

Or something like that.

I don't know whether the FA took the inside or outside route.

Edit: didn't realise that the "bet" is mentioned in the database route description - must remember to look first in future.

Post edited at 18:41
 Dave Ferguson 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

there's more than the average crop of such routes to be found on the Lleyn

Avernus (HVS 4c)

FANTAN B (HVS 5a)

Cripple Creek (E3 5b)

are 3 of the more travelled excursions. Plenty of adventures to be had on the less popular lines.

 Wingnut 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Anything at Finedon ...

 TobyA 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I went to Horseshoe Quarry this morning to do my first sport routes of the year. There aren't many routes below 6b that I haven't done in the quarry by this point - most that I haven't are of, shall we say, questionable quality. This morning I did Men at Work (5a), that someone has laughably given a star (Alan, Rob, Chris - indeed Rockfax/UKC collectively - I'm looking at you! ), then I did Spare Rib (5a), which is worse, but at least has the decency of having no stars at all. So I offer all of Chocolate Blancmange Wall at Horseshoe to this thread. And, with UK sport routes being what they are, maybe we can do a second book: "Terrible British Sport Climbs from 3a to 7a"? I don't really climb much above 6a so know there are terrible 6as. Presumably there are terrible 6bs, 6cs and 7as as well? When you start getting out of the quarries and onto the natural rock there maybe there are less bad routes? Although perhaps the wads will tell us about terrible 8as now too!

3
In reply to harry leaver:

I’m slightly surprised Cloggy’s Black Cleft hasn’t had a mention yet. Hat tip to the late great Al Evans and his amusing story of himself and Ron F ascending it.

Green Slab at Gogarth is another excellent outing in this idiom, as is more or less anything at Carn Gowla.

jcm

 Hooo 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

For anyone venturing onto Southern Sandstone Sapper (5b) is a rite of passage. A must-do classic, where everyone will stand around sniggering while they wait for you to get to the fun bit.

 Rog Wilko 19 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

This route gets rather a bad press, but I quite liked it, even if it was a long while ago.

Cummerbund (VS 4b)

Then there’s this little horror show. Little Isadore (S). Only one other person logged it on here.

 TobyA 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I've just checked the logbooks Dumbarton Chimney (VS 4c) has had two recorded ascents, mine in 1994, and another in 2011. For a popular crag, that must be one of the least favourite mid grade routes in the UK! A definite contender for inclusion. 

 redjerry 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/creag_rodha_mor-17982/guanissimo-2...

Worst route to ever get two stars....total pile.

2
 French Erick 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Whilst the rest of beinn tarsuinn offers stupendous climbing, I remember being a bit shell shocked by Brobdingnag (E2 5b)

Could  have been the shrapnel, the rebirth or the intimate closeness with heather (common plant no pretty Heather next door!)

Post edited at 06:25
 French Erick 20 Feb 2023
In reply to redjerry:

I preferred finishing up the 2nd pitch of the E4… having never managed to O/S a 6a pitch before. That mucky ledge….

 jon 20 Feb 2023
In reply to redjerry:

> Worst route to ever get two stars....total pile.

Brilliant photo of it  though...!

 Dave Garnett 20 Feb 2023
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

> there's more than the average crop of such routes to be found on the Lleyn

Yes, but that's cheating isn't it?  Like the Culm, you know what you're in for!

 Indignancy 20 Feb 2023
In reply to Hooo:

I did it in the summer and didn’t find it too bad. Made the mistake of coming back in March and the chimney was absolutely smothered in pigeon poo, making the whole thing much more exciting…

 ericinbristol 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Great thread.

'Make It Snappy' F4c in Cheddar.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_north-2280/make_it_s....

Horrendous 'sport' climbing. I preferred to skip a couple of clips, as I felt safer that way - didn't fancy being connected to those blocks.

I'll climb any old rubbish to increase my Cheddar tally.

Post edited at 13:28
 Marek 20 Feb 2023
In reply to TobyA:

> ... And, with UK sport routes being what they are, maybe we can do a second book: "Terrible British Sport Climbs from 3a to 7a"? ...

Wouldn't "Good British Sport Climbs from 3a to 7a" save on lots of paper? I was going to mention Horseshoe Quarry (back end), but you beat me to it.

I also recall some horrendous top-outs (above poor unprotected climbing) through brambles, gorse and slippery mud in one of the Welsh quarries - possibly Maeshafn?

1
 ericinbristol 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Oops sorry - I posted about a sport climb - wrong thread

 Marek 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I think there could also be a sub-genre which are critically technique dependent, i.e., OK if you're in the know and a nightmare if you're not. The 'compelling arse' of Goldsitch Crack (Baldstones) comes to mind.

 Alex@home 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Pretty much anything at Charnwood Quarry. The routes are character building and some of them might have not fallen down yet. The climbing is mostly pretty easy but that means you've got a lot of time to think about where you are

Some of my "favourites" were

The Seventh Curse (E2 5b)

Good gear at half height. Couple of sky hooks and much decomposing rock after that

Fourth Protocol (E2 4c)

Good (for the venue) gear at 10m. Then get your bold head on for the next 30m

Third Degree (E3 5b)

Looked like gear at 10m but the slot shattered when I tugged on a wire. Looked like a cam would go in the remnants but it fell apart again when I placed it. Eventually found a size 1 nut at half height and made do

Post edited at 16:48
 profitofdoom 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I found Mourning Glory (VS) at Cheddar really poor. And inexplicably I have done it twice. What was I thinking. (I don't understand myself sometimes ha ha ha)

 C Witter 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I kinda misinterpreted the brief and went for routes that are somehow both brilliant and awful, rather than pure garbage. It's a productive tension...

Pure garbage is too easy...

1
 Mick Ward 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Tabula Rosa. A trip to a very dark place in your mind. 

Or probably any of the old stuff at Langcliffe? Apart from TR, have only done The Corner, once laughingly described in the guidebook as 'a fine mountaineering route'. 

'And she gets her kicks at Langcliffe, not in Knightsbridge any more...'

Mick 

1
 Rog Wilko 20 Feb 2023
In reply to Mick Ward:

Does Segeant's Crag Gully (summer) (S) qualify? Some of the comments make a good read.

 gooberman-hill 20 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Can I offer the Pat Littleton classic The Adversary (E4 6a) at  Zawn Duel and Carn Gloose Area. I recall that it took a number of trips to the glowering stone on the lip of the giant arse-cleft that is the top of Duel Zawn, plus a serious night of High Speed Diesel in the Star in St Just before we were prepared to commit to the abseil.

Not that I have been anywhere near it, but I suspect that Roraima (E4 5c) might be an even better fit for this volume.

 climbingpixie 20 Feb 2023
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Ha! I was about to suggest Fantan B. Did it last year and felt mentally scarred by the experience. It started with a walk across slimy bird poo coated ledges, no belay or gear to be found, where all the available rock that could conceivably be used as a hand or foothold was covered in partially disintegrated nests. All whilst trying to keep the rope out of the viscous green pools of ammoniac sludge. As we got higher the climbing got harder and the rock looser, though thankfully less filthy. Really complicated route finding too - it was always good to see the odd rusting peg stump just for navigation purposes! Topped out utterly wired, starving and dehydrated as we hadn't wanted to touch our food or water with our filthy bird poo covered hands. Made Avernus (which we did the year before) feel like a solid and well trodden Stanage VS!!

 wilkesley 20 Feb 2023
In reply to climbingpixie:

Apart from the climb itself getting to the start was terrifying. Going down using the cable was OK, but the last part on steep wet grass while wearing rock shoes made me wish I was somewhere safer.

 Fruit 21 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Rubbish with stars:

Angel Pavement & Red Pencil Direct.

Angel Pavement (HS 4b)

Red Pencil Direct (HS 4b)

3
 DaveHK 21 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Why do so many of these photos of horrendous thrutchy horror shows feature people in shorts? Schoolboy error that!

 Mick Ward 21 Feb 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> Does Segeant's Crag Gully (summer) (S) qualify? Some of the comments make a good read.

Yikes!

Mick

In reply to Rog Wilko:

SCG is an excellent route in the wet or dry. As is Miners Crag Gully.

Different class to Moss Ghyll (yuck!).

DC

 dsh 21 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I always thought https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_needles-2342/skeleton_ridge-38... looked fun. I remember years ago doing a route that went inside the roaches but can't remember what it's called.

Edit: this is it  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_upper_tier-797/late_night_... 

Definitely fun in a stupid kind of way.

Post edited at 16:27
 John Kelly 21 Feb 2023
In reply to Dave Cumberland:

Miners crag gully??? = Newlands gully maybe

If so grim a few weeks ago, tottering rubble, serious, belaying was not fun. Would consider going back in the dry when an ascent might not rely quite as much on the rubble and dead sheep

Agree with your comments on Sergeant Crag gully, a much more pleasant affair 

Post edited at 17:27
 kwoods 21 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

I keep thinking of one route when I see this thread so might as well post...!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/slackdhu-194/central_pillar-630575

Admittedly one of my 'own' routes (who knows, I'll bet done before by those '30s shipbuilders). Absolute pile of choss. The buttress converges into a 30m headwall. That pitch takes three tiers of Jenga, each one gets more runout. Crumbly volcanic stuff. First attempt, we tried it in quasi-winter conditions, and bailed just below the top. We went back in summer and that pitch took a couple of hours, lots of rockfall, chopped rope at the belay, 'invented' handholds, absolutely ridiculous.

I thought XS was way too big a grade at the time but looking back it totally sums it up..... either that or very loose winter V, etc.

 full stottie 21 Feb 2023
In reply to Mick Ward:

Or probably any of the old stuff at Langcliffe? 

My lasting memory of Langcliffe was the smell from the tip below.

 Phil Tucker 21 Feb 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:good choice


 dominic o 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

For a double tick in "Stupid Rock" and "Hard Rock" I'd highly "recommend" Raven's Gully... Epic! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/08/13/ravens-gully/

Cheers, Dom 

 Fat Bumbly2 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Down amongst the diffs.    Great Gully, Pavey Ark.   Memories of a marginal no.4 friend placement required to keep the rope out of a decomposing sheep.

https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6493286

Post edited at 08:20
 Rog Wilko 22 Feb 2023
In reply to Phil Tucker:

Hi Phil,

 I was thinking of this picture when I made the suggestion. When I first saw it I was torn between deciding whether you were to be admired or ridiculed.

1
In reply to John Kelly:

> Miners crag gully??? = Newlands gully maybe

Indeed, my apologies, my mistake. Still enjoyed it.

DC

In reply to Phil Tucker:

Great photo. When Yosemite hardmen come across from the states and there's the perennial discussion of what routes to suggest to them to get a flavour of British climbing, experiences like this should be top of the list.

In reply to john arran:

Total Classic John thanks for posting - When I read this thread I thought of Stannington Ruffs so good to see it come up as the first climb on your video. You did well the only time I tried to visit I failed to find the crag in the jungle 

 Offwidth 22 Feb 2023
In reply to Kipper-Phil Smith:

As a dedicated obscurist a visit was a must: I found it and wished I'd hadn't.

 nickcanute 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver: a couple in The Peak* that haven't been mentioned:

Plum Buttress Stomach Traverse (HD)

Gentle Warm Up (6a)

A couple of through routes on Gower*:

Sorry I Ate Too Much Bread (E2 5c) have a look at the photo of this one haha

Honeymoon Chimney (HVS 5a)

These last two in a ticklist of several Gower through routes for interested affectionados 

*(Peak not Peaks, Gower not The Gower)

Post edited at 12:09
 Rog Wilko 22 Feb 2023
In reply to nickcanute:

> *(Peak not Peaks, Gower not The Gower)

i think you’re trying to hold back the tide there.

 mal_meech 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

No list like this is complete without Jake's Jungle Route (XS 4a) 

An arboreal experience, originally graded Hard Very Vegetated... 

Though I have memories of quite enjoying it on a sunny day

 Dave Garnett 22 Feb 2023
In reply to petegunn:

> Have you ever watched the superb Slackjaw film HardXS the film from some years back, it's excellent.

> It's starts with this superb route on the Devon coast! Dave Thomas absolutely living it whilst Martin Perry's face at the top.of the route says it all haha, soooooo good 🤗

If you fancy a short taster to see if you like this sort of thing, I'd recommend this: 

Hassle (HVS 4b)

 TobyA 22 Feb 2023
In reply to nickcanute:

The comments from the few of us who have done it say a lot about that one! Good call. It would definitely go into my "Terrible British Sport Climbs" book, although I'm starting to think a better title would be: "Terribly British Sport Climbs".
 

 The New NickB 22 Feb 2023
In reply to Fat Bumbly2:

Anything below Jack’s Rake on Pavey should be avoided. 

5
 Sean Kelly 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Oh  there's that horrible slanting crack/Chimney on the north side of Saddle Tor...truly horrible. Verdigree Cleft. The name says it all!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/saddle_tor-1141/verdigris_cleft-18...

Post edited at 18:18
 Michael Hood 22 Feb 2023
In reply to Sean Kelly:

There were a couple of routes at Willersley - don't know if they're in the latest guide but from 1987's Peak Limestone South...

Funnily enough they don't appear in Phil Gibson's excellent crag drawings. Needless to say I haven't done them and know of no-one who has.

Volunteers?

Post edited at 18:45

 CurlyStevo 22 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Not really a rock climb but there was rock present. I scrambled / climbed the north face of Pen-y-fan in summer unroped (following the rough lines of the winter climbs but rambling about) with a friend. Was much laughter involved but only as it was so ridiculous. At one point I was slowly slipping down a steep muddy shallow gully above a boulder drop and stopped myself with a pointy rock, even that didn't stop the giggles. We were both quite disappointed not to get a round of applause from the tourists at the top. I clearly remember a walker on the path telling their children how stupid we were being. 

We went up the middle right section in this pic finish to the middle of the summit plateau, mostly on the ridges IIRC. There was however definite long sections of steep grass slopes. They consisted of large very long horizontal grass steps that were not well attached to the rock and the gap at the back of the grass to the rock behind could be used as a hand hold, that you mustn't really pull on! https://sp-images.summitpost.org/282048.JPG?auto=format&fit=max&ixl... 

I'd probably grade it MXS (Mod Extremely Severe)

Post edited at 22:45
1
 CurlyStevo 22 Feb 2023
In reply to smithg:

I 'scrambled' up craig rennet in summer once.

 gav 23 Feb 2023
 Bulls Crack 23 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Most things at Cullernose Point and all the routes at  Crag Point...from memory . Cullernose for full-on climbing but sadly covered n bird shit...Crag Point is just a crumbly sea defence as far a i remember. 

 fmck 23 Feb 2023
In reply to harry leaver:

Lower Left Chimney (VD)

Arran has already been mentioned but this was an experience I will never repeat. It was done due to being in the vicinity during bad weather and quite possibly it's only second ascent.

I was second but this may actually increase the difficulty. The whole inside was a mixture a black peat slurry and green slime. Some things I stuck my hand into seemed like alien life forms. This coupled with the rock being of similar strength as damp rice krispies. The whole thing flowed with rivers of gravel and slurry. Any flakes would disintegrate on touch and dissolve into gravel.

I got to the top the most filthy and wet I have ever been. So much so once in Glen Rosa I walked into the river fully clothed. My gear was damaged and I found gravel in all sorts of places including the crotch of my underpants!

 ianstevens 23 Feb 2023
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

> there's more than the average crop of such routes to be found on the Lleyn

> are 3 of the more travelled excursions. Plenty of adventures to be had on the less popular lines.

Honestly these are all fantastic route FOR THEIR GENRE (i.e. birdshit covered rubble). Whether you think that's a legitimate climbing style of course is another thing.

 Phil Tucker 23 Feb 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Rog it was Mikes idea. Afterwards I said if he wanted to do it again it would have to be frozen.


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