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Southern sandstone sling question

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 konrad7272 22 May 2020

Hi all. We are planning on heading out to southern sandstone in the near future, and from the guidebook it recommends 25mmx240cm slings to set up the top rope. 
 

We’ve got 4 steel carabiners and a few 10mmx120cm slings, and unfortunately don’t have a second static rope to use with the anchor yet (one ordered, but delayed).
 

the questions are:

 - is there a risk in using 10mm wide slings (rather than recommended 25mm) for a top rope anchor? 
 - in order for the slings to be long enough is it safe to connect two 120mm slings by a carabiner? Conscious of not damaging the rock, so Could use a bottle to protect from the carabiner

Any advice greatly appreciated.

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 GrahamD 22 May 2020
In reply to konrad7272:

10mm is fine strength wise, as is joining slings together.  Not a bad idea to have a small piece of carpet to put under the sling where it runs over any edges.

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In reply to konrad7272:

Carpet is better than a plastic bottle if you can get some (or clip your rucksack under it). 10mm slings are fine. Also only climb stuff you can climb. Nothing wrong with taking a fall but if you're repeatedly failing on something go onto something easier.

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 konrad7272 22 May 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:


Thanks both, that’s really helpful advice. After such a long time away from the rock we will be taking it very easy!

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 cpowell 22 May 2020
In reply to konrad7272:

IMHO slings are the best over static rope as 'static' climbing rope still stretches a little under load - slings much less so.

I'd echo deacondeacon - dogging sandstone isn't good for it and if you do dog it make sure the rope is not touching the rock.

Apologies if you have climbed there before and so know this but the rock is very sandy so make sure shoes and holds are (hand) brushed free, not only will it be much easier to climb it helps slow the erosion process down - an old bit of carpet quickly becomes a valuable addition to your sandstone rack.

Enjoy

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 Joffy 22 May 2020
In reply to konrad7272:

Also feel free to ask advice when you get there. Although not everyone does it 100% right, people will still be willing to help out or offer advice if you ask for it.

Last Saturday there was BMC members at Harrison's handing out flyers and giving anchor advice too.

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 helix 22 May 2020
In reply to konrad7272:

If you’re going to Harrison’s the carpark is locked at 8pm at the moment. Don’t get locked in!

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In reply to cpowell:

Hi,  some of the shorter slings may appear to be more "static" but they do still stretch. It's s lot more noticeable on ther longer ones or if a few are linked.

"Static" rope is a lot more versatile for adjusting to keep the climbing rope well over the edge.  The number one arguement I get presented with is "I know it should be over the edge but my sling didn't reach". If this happens,  please choose a different route instead of pushing on

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In reply to konrad7272:

To the original post, as already said a lot of people do use thinner slings.  They are ok to use but like the classic physics experiment about stilettos putting the force of an elephant on the dance floor,  will concentrate ther load of a smaller area of rock. If you can stick a bit of carpet underneath that would help,  also check them for ware regularly as any chaff in the setup will cut through very quickly.

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 daimon Global Crag Moderator UKH Supporter 12:58 Mon
In reply to konrad7272:

Just going to add the following links that you may find helpful in the future.

http://www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk/p/equipment.html

http://www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk/2014/10/southern-sandstone-rope-protector.html

Page 43 of the guide has info on slings as well.

https://rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/intros/southern-sandstone-intro.pdf

As noted by others, you can always ask, but I expect you got it right in the end.  

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