South Wales Sport en route to Pembrokeshire

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 Olly Norris 15 Sep 2020

Hello! Looking for some local knowledge. On the way to Pembrokeshire tomorrow and would like to sample some South Wales Sport on the way. Don't know where to start in the South Wales Rockfax! Looking for reasonably quick access, and climbing around 6b. Any tips or favourites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 GrahamD 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

Can't help with route suggestions but might be useful to know where you are heading from

OP Olly Norris 15 Sep 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Good point thank you!  Coming from the South via M4.

Cheers

 Climbthatpitch 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

Taff's Well is only a short detour off the m4. 

Will admit I have only climbed there once but from memory it was ok

 elliptic 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

Tirpentwys is great for a quick hit and has plenty in the 6a/6b range.

 Cake 16 Sep 2020
In reply to elliptic:

Barland Quarry

is a lot of fun for an afternoon, but I guess it's not that close to the M4.

 mick t 16 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

was down that way the other week and thought Navigation quarry one of the better venues. some cracking 6a & 6bs and if you check on the south wales wiki youll see that most of these routes now have lower offs

 PaulJepson 16 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

These are the better sandstone crags I've been to:

The Gap - Steeper stuff

Navigation Quarry - Crimpy rock-over slabs

Tirpentwys - Some nice crack lines

Sirhowy - Steep face climbing with some bouldery routes in the middle area

This looks good at the grade and is short approach but I have no personal experience of it:  Bargoed

Limestone sport:

Gilwern (there are a few different crag pages for Gilwern, so have a look at the other crags around that area)

 julesmckim 19 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

Pendine is worthwhile. Had a fun half day of bolt clipping there on the way to Pembroke

 FactorXXX 19 Sep 2020
In reply to Olly Norris:

A lot of the crags now fall into the Lockdown areas introduced over the last few days.  Best checking before making any plans, etc.


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