/ Scottish Severes
Ok, any suggestions for your favourite Scottish severes. No obvious routes already popular due to inclusion in anything like Classic Rock but worth the short/long walk in, dodgy abseil or 3 hour drive. Single pitch or multi, doesn't matter as long as it is, in your opinion, a cracking route.
Apologies if this is has been requested before, but I can't be bothered to search for it. Any answers gratefully recieved. I'll start the ball rolling with 'The Weight' and 'Albatross' on Fulmar wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs.
Here's a couple to get you started:
Mullenium Direct over in Ardgour, brilliant rock, not much gear but the situation is lovely and the climbing no harder than vdiff so the lack of gear isn't an issue:
Or Raeburns Arete on Ben Nevis, best done on a warm day and in the afternoon so it's in the sun. Continuing up NE Buttress if you want to get to the summit:
Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar 😁
That's in Classic Rock though....
Flying Dutchman on Polldubh is one of the best pitches I've done at that grade.
Is Route II direct in Classic Rock? If not then I'd recommend it.
Punster’s Crack on the Cobbler
Secretaries Direct, poldubh. I'd give this equal status with flying Dutchman.
Pipet Slab (MS) is a nice day out in the gorms.
Also the last eighty (include lower tiers) on ben An. You can link up lower, middle then upper tiers climbing at grade S with a wee walk between routes/pitches:
Link up: Ash Wall, Birch Wall, Rowan Rib and the last eighty.
The Hood on Lower Cave,Craig y Barns. Two interesting pitches.
Sorry it looks like it is now considered VS...I had it down as Hard Severe.
If we're sneaking in HSs then open secret at stone valley
Some interesting suggestions here, although some are included in Classic Rock! I have done several in the list so far, but am looking forward to getting to the ones I haven't yet done. And as I started the list with a HS (The Weight), it has to be allowed!
Some good shouts here away from the traditional classics (Punsters and January Jigsaw etc). The severes on Sheigra are all quality on perfect rock. Stepping Out at Latheronwheel packs a lot of good climbing into it's short length (in fact all the routes there seem worth doing - Pistachio is another good severe). On Skye, Fertility Right is good steep fun while in the mountains White Slab Direct is a good long and varied route, but is a bit of a sandbag and really should be VS rather than Severe. Agree also that Shark Crack and Open Secret are two of the best HS's out there - superb.
Route II direct on Carn Dearg Buttress covers some amazing ground for the grade but the final couple of pitches are a bit loose.
+1 for Auld Nick and Shackle Route.
Butterknife was good. Hideous walk-in, though.
It's not bad if you go up to the col then drop down to the start of the route.
Lots of good ones already mentioned one I'd add for a warm summers evening is the traverse from the big metal ring around to the bowling green below Dumbarton Castle Rock. It's easy and only a wee bit above the sea for 90% of the time and only goes to 4a or b at one point (tho that bit is about 10m up) and is done as a solo. No ropes or gear faff, warm rock, easy climbing and sea gently lapping lovely.
Pippet Slab on Stac an Fharaidh. Delightful route!
"Interesting" to escape from when it snows though☺️
Err no...I think an HVS leader would be kept entertained on the UG despite what the guide says!
Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.
> Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.
I prefer this ab to the Jamie Jampot one for that reason.
Sadly we didn't go on to do JJ, something I'll hope to do if I ever get up there again.
Well worth going back for - one of the best open book corners in the country!
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