/ Scottish Severes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
pamph 20 Oct 2019

Ok, any suggestions for your favourite Scottish severes. No obvious routes already popular due to inclusion in anything like Classic Rock but worth the short/long walk in, dodgy abseil or 3 hour drive. Single pitch or multi, doesn't matter as long as it is, in your opinion, a cracking route.

Apologies if this is has been requested before, but I can't be bothered to search for it. Any answers gratefully recieved. I'll start the ball rolling with 'The Weight' and 'Albatross' on Fulmar wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs.

1
Fiona Reid 20 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Here's a couple to get you started: 

Mullenium Direct over in Ardgour, brilliant rock, not much gear but the situation is lovely and the climbing no harder than vdiff so the lack of gear isn't an issue:

Mullenium Direct (S 4a)

Or Raeburns Arete on Ben Nevis, best done on a warm day and in the afternoon so it's in the sun. Continuing up NE Buttress if you want to get to the summit: 

Raeburns Arete (S)

Mike-W-99 20 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

here’s some , shackle route isn’t far from the classics on rannoch wall.

Shackle Route (Summer) (S)

Auld Nick (S)

drew52 20 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar 😁

Rog Wilko 20 Oct 2019
Fiona Reid 20 Oct 2019
In reply to drew52:

That's in Classic Rock though....

Eric9Points 20 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Flying Dutchman on Polldubh is one of the best pitches I've done at that grade.

Is Route II direct in Classic Rock? If not then I'd recommend it.

colinakmc 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Punster’s Crack on the Cobbler

Gawyllie 21 Oct 2019
daWalt 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Secretaries Direct, poldubh. I'd give this equal status with flying Dutchman.

Pipet Slab (MS) is a nice day out in the gorms.

Also the last eighty (include lower tiers) on ben An. You can link up lower, middle then upper tiers climbing at grade S with a wee walk between routes/pitches:

Link up: Ash Wall, Birch Wall, Rowan Rib and the last eighty.

Ben A'an#maps

Post edited at 10:21
Rog Wilko 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Plus this one on same crag - 

Tall Pall (S)

And this one Shark Crack (HS 4b). Didn't manage to get on it but looks brilliant. Not sure if HS is allowed, though. UKC users rave over it - still hope to get on it one day! 

sjminfife 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

The Hood on Lower Cave,Craig y Barns. Two interesting pitches.

Sorry it looks like it is now considered VS...I had it down as Hard Severe.

Post edited at 12:49
In reply to pamph:

If we're sneaking in HSs then open secret at stone valley

pamph 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Some interesting suggestions here, although some are included in Classic Rock! I have done several in the list so far, but am looking forward to getting to the ones I haven't yet done. And as I started the list with a HS (The Weight), it has to be allowed!

oscaig 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Some good shouts here away from the traditional classics (Punsters and January Jigsaw etc).  The severes on Sheigra are all quality on perfect rock.  Stepping Out at Latheronwheel packs a lot of good climbing into it's short length (in fact all the routes there seem worth doing - Pistachio is another good severe).  On Skye, Fertility Right is good steep fun while in the mountains White Slab Direct is a good long and varied route, but is a bit of a sandbag and really should be VS rather than Severe.  Agree also that Shark Crack and Open Secret are two of the best HS's out there - superb.    

Captain Solo 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Eric9Points:

Route II direct on Carn Dearg Buttress covers some amazing ground for the grade but the final couple of pitches are a bit loose.

+1 for Auld Nick and Shackle Route.

Either Central Buttress - Pigott's Route (S 4b) or Hamilton's Route (Summer) (S 4a) on Central Buttress Beinn Eighe is a grand day out.

Cioch West (S 4a) or Direct Route (S 4a) on Sron na Criche are excellent too.

becauseitsthere 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Open Secret at Stone Valley.. HS but good angled slabs and pro. 

Stone Valley Crags

Iain Thow 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

+1 for Mullenium Direct, Stepping Out and Open Secret

Butterknife (HS 4b)

Secretaries' Direct Route (S)

Pagoda Ridge (S)

If I had to pick one Scottish Severe it would be Ardverikie Wall, but that's in Classic Rock.

Rog Wilko 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Iain Thow:

Butterknife was good. Hideous walk-in, though.

Cog 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

It's not bad if you go up to the col then drop down to the start of the route.

mike barnard 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Captain Solo:

> Either Central Buttress - Pigott's Route (S 4b) or Hamilton's Route (Summer) (S 4a) on Central Buttress Beinn Eighe is a grand day out.> 

Not the Upper Girdle?

Pefa 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Lots of good ones already mentioned one I'd add for a warm summers evening is the traverse from the big metal ring around to the bowling green below Dumbarton Castle Rock. It's easy and only a wee bit above the sea for 90% of the time and only goes to 4a or b at one point (tho that bit is about 10m up) and is done as a solo. No ropes or gear faff, warm rock, easy climbing and sea gently lapping lovely. 

Mark Bannan 21 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Pippet Slab on Stac an Fharaidh. Delightful route!

Iain Thow 21 Oct 2019
In reply to Mark Bannan:

"Interesting" to escape from when it snows though☺️

Captain Solo 22 Oct 2019
In reply to mike barnard:

Err no...I think an HVS leader would be kept entertained on the UG despite what the guide says!

Ann S 23 Oct 2019
In reply to pamph:

Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.

mike barnard 23 Oct 2019
In reply to Ann S:

> Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.

I prefer this ab to the Jamie Jampot one for that reason.

Ann S 23 Oct 2019
In reply to mike barnard:

Sadly we didn't go on to do JJ, something I'll hope to do if I ever get up there again.

mike barnard 23 Oct 2019
In reply to Ann S:

Well worth going back for - one of the best open book corners in the country!

1

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.