Ok, any suggestions for your favourite Scottish severes. No obvious routes already popular due to inclusion in anything like Classic Rock but worth the short/long walk in, dodgy abseil or 3 hour drive. Single pitch or multi, doesn't matter as long as it is, in your opinion, a cracking route.
Apologies if this is has been requested before, but I can't be bothered to search for it. Any answers gratefully recieved. I'll start the ball rolling with 'The Weight' and 'Albatross' on Fulmar wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs.
In reply to pamph:
Here's a couple to get you started:
Mullenium Direct over in Ardgour, brilliant rock, not much gear but the situation is lovely and the climbing no harder than vdiff so the lack of gear isn't an issue:
Mullenium Direct (S 4a)
Or Raeburns Arete on Ben Nevis, best done on a warm day and in the afternoon so it's in the sun. Continuing up NE Buttress if you want to get to the summit:
Raeburns Arete (S)
In reply to pamph:
Flying Dutchman on Polldubh is one of the best pitches I've done at that grade.
Is Route II direct in Classic Rock? If not then I'd recommend it.
In reply to pamph:
Secretaries Direct, poldubh. I'd give this equal status with flying Dutchman.
Pipet Slab (MS) is a nice day out in the gorms.
Also the last eighty (include lower tiers) on ben An. You can link up lower, middle then upper tiers climbing at grade S with a wee walk between routes/pitches:
Link up: Ash Wall, Birch Wall, Rowan Rib and the last eighty.
Ben A'an#maps
Post edited at 10:21
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Plus this one on same crag -
Tall Pall (S)
And this one Shark Crack (HS 4b). Didn't manage to get on it but looks brilliant. Not sure if HS is allowed, though. UKC users rave over it - still hope to get on it one day!
In reply to pamph:
The Hood on Lower Cave,Craig y Barns. Two interesting pitches.
Sorry it looks like it is now considered VS...I had it down as Hard Severe.
Post edited at 12:49
In reply to pamph:
If we're sneaking in HSs then open secret at stone valley
In reply to pamph:
Some interesting suggestions here, although some are included in Classic Rock! I have done several in the list so far, but am looking forward to getting to the ones I haven't yet done. And as I started the list with a HS (The Weight), it has to be allowed!
In reply to pamph:
Some good shouts here away from the traditional classics (Punsters and January Jigsaw etc). The severes on Sheigra are all quality on perfect rock. Stepping Out at Latheronwheel packs a lot of good climbing into it's short length (in fact all the routes there seem worth doing - Pistachio is another good severe). On Skye, Fertility Right is good steep fun while in the mountains White Slab Direct is a good long and varied route, but is a bit of a sandbag and really should be VS rather than Severe. Agree also that Shark Crack and Open Secret are two of the best HS's out there - superb.
In reply to Iain Thow:
Butterknife was good. Hideous walk-in, though.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
It's not bad if you go up to the col then drop down to the start of the route.
In reply to pamph:
Lots of good ones already mentioned one I'd add for a warm summers evening is the traverse from the big metal ring around to the bowling green below Dumbarton Castle Rock. It's easy and only a wee bit above the sea for 90% of the time and only goes to 4a or b at one point (tho that bit is about 10m up) and is done as a solo. No ropes or gear faff, warm rock, easy climbing and sea gently lapping lovely.
In reply to pamph:
Pippet Slab on Stac an Fharaidh. Delightful route!
In reply to Mark Bannan:
"Interesting" to escape from when it snows though☺️
In reply to mike barnard:
Err no...I think an HVS leader would be kept entertained on the UG despite what the guide says!
In reply to pamph:
Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.
In reply to Ann S:
> Fertility right (S) at Suidhe Biorach near Elgol on Skye. Excellent route on super rock but take care with the abseil as the route consists of lots of razor sharp horizontal plates.
I prefer this ab to the Jamie Jampot one for that reason.
In reply to mike barnard:
Sadly we didn't go on to do JJ, something I'll hope to do if I ever get up there again.
In reply to Ann S:
Well worth going back for - one of the best open book corners in the country!
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