Potential Crag Holyrood Park

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 Sul 15 Dec 2021

Many is the time I have walked around the park perimeter road and wondered about possible routes

The chossfest of Radical road is well known but just past the quarry and going anticlockwise on the road and just past a steep way up to Arthurs Seat is a fine looking crag that looks as if it would  give maybe ten or so trad lines. There seems to be a fine wall on the left, steeper stuff in the middle and easier angle on the right

Given the location I am surprised this crag appears undeveloped. I am unable to provide a photo as I am not a "supporter" but a bit of google mapping should find the spot. Maybe the park managers do not want climbing

Perhaps a local activist can provide some information

Sul

In reply to Sul:

There are loads of crags dotted about Arthur's Seat. Most if not all will have been climbed on in the past.

I guess you might be thinking of the big rotten looking crag right of Gutted Haddie (that earthy gully up Arthur's seat)? It's Raven's Crag, there are a couple of recorded routes but it doesn't get a very appealing write up in the old Lowland Outcrops guide (which has a small section on the various bits of rock).

Or perhaps you mean the much better looking crag with the columnar jointing above the Duddingston road? Samson's Ribs. It's also been climbed on. 

Sadly it's all academic. Climbing is banned in the park - which really isn't in keeping with outdoor access, but local byelaws apply unfortunately. You're not going to be able to climb anything in sight of a road without attracting unwanted attention. 

 tlouth7 15 Dec 2021
In reply to Sul:

There is some good scrambling on the Long Row and the Dassies which is not overlooked by too many people and easy to saunter away from if you do attract any attention. This week is nice and warm for some stealthy night climbing...

Hypothetically of course, and I certainly wouldn't climb on anything directly above a road or path given the quality of the rock.

Post edited at 16:57
OP Sul 15 Dec 2021
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Thanks for info banned as I thought. I probably meant the first crag you mention. It still think it looks good from the road but maybe I should get a closer look. Anyway as you say academic

Sul

 BrendanO 15 Dec 2021

> Sadly it's all academic. Climbing is banned in the park - which really isn't in keeping with outdoor access, but local byelaws apply unfortunately. 

 

I think climbing is normally allowed at South Quarry if you get a free permit, but the area is currently closed due to rockfall risk. However, its now been closed for a couple of years, and doesn't look like opening soon, sadly. 
 

i have seen a number of people crossing the park with boulder mats, and indeed climbing in S Quarry, despite this, though I believe there is a real risk of rockfall. I also believe its gonna be unfeasably expensive to fix the problem.

In reply to Sul:

It is probably in here.  I wouldn't recommend buying the guidebook to find out though because as Dan said climbing is banned in the park anyway.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lowland-Outcrops-Scottish-Mountaineering-Climbers/...

Once I made the huge mistake of going off piste and trying to go straight up in a scrambly section of one of the smaller paths near there because it looked easy and slabby.  It was easy and slabby for about ten metres, then it turned into crumbling rubbish above pretty long fall.

 Andy Moles 16 Dec 2021
In reply to Sul:

On an overcast winter night, the city lights reflecting off the sky and the snow allow secretive climbing without torches on the Park's few winter routes. Apparently.

Though be warned also that the ones on the Lion's Head consist mainly of gorse.

 redjerry 18 Dec 2021
In reply to Sul:

If you're talking about Raven Crag (the big one right of The Gutted Haddie) I did a pretty nice traverse going right to left across the base of the steepest part of the crag. About 50 or 60 feet long, kinda burly (like a 7c+/8a route, but stay off the low apron for that grade). The rock was surprisingly decent but really snappy.. there were a bunch of times when an apparently solid hold snapped like a carrot and I ended up on my arse.
Trad climb on that stuff?...yoiks!


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