Is Potato Head still accessible?
If it is, any tips from the local habituees?
Wear a helmet belaying
Don't expect the routes to be the given grade or even the same grade as when you started trying them that morning
A harder Nudey with man eating chasms by the sounds of it (how does Mr R find them?!).
I seem to recall reading that something (the beach access, the whole of Watcombe?) had fallen away?
Is a ladder useful for the chasm or is that just not cricket?
Hi Crispin, Don't listen to Nick, he's talking nonsense, as usual ;)!! Routes grades are all spot on and rock is basically like a slightly more solid version of Taipan Wall.
Seriously, your description is about right, the base of the crag is 'tricky' (Lee has managed to drop countless things down the chasms including, on one occasion, his jumper...twice in one evening!), basically the further left you are the trickier it gets with the three left most routes requiring 'the step across' which is like an easier version of the Great Zawn step at Bosi. For a trad meister like yourself it's no bother, just those modern wall rats that have trouble! I certainly wouldn't bother with a ladder as carrying it in and out would be awful and the step really isn't too bad.
The route on the far right has a flat base and is pretty much perma dry once the seepage has gone (it has).
I was there on Saturday climbing all afternoon with Macca and Steve. Other than on the new line I was working there was no potato loss and all the routes (apart form Maris Piper's tufa) were dry.
Go and have yourself an adventure whilst clipping some bolts.
Tom is bang on so no worries with access. I also had the same thoughts when I saw the reports on the news about the beach being closed due to landslide. I believe it is still closed, there is a sign saying as much at the top of the drive however the walk down is not really any different than it was before and there were lots of people on the beach last week. A bit like Ansteys beach I guess, "closed".
Climbing wise the routes have certainly settled down and there is far less hold shedding. A helmet might be a good idea if you are concerned however careful footwork when climbing is far more important, its pretty obvious whats good and what has the potential to not be!
Is a good steep unrelenting crag!
As Tom said enjoy!
A recent first ever trip to Nudey has sparked a slight pebble induced madness.
So Potato Head will have to be checked out!
All the best.
Do you want a heads up if we're heading over at some point this weekend Crispin?
The very furthest right line is worth avoiding. Apart from the fact I haven't actually done it yet! The first few bolts need replacing as they aren't stainless.
And more to the point, have you put that fingerboard up yet?!
Oh yes, forgot about the furthest furthest right line! Soz Ged.
Finger board is primed and...in the shed. It will be going up in the next couple of years probably.
Thanks Tom. I think we'll be heading somewhere, quite possibly there, on Sunday afternoon to evening. May see you there. If not, see you soon.
Get it done! It'll be in the smartest route name in South Devon.
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