/ Portugal guidebook grades

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Donny M 14 Oct 2019

My mum moved to portugal a few years ago and I’ve had a few non-climbing recon trips to the crags in her area and tomorrow me and my partner are flying out with gear for a week on the rock. 
 

I just purchased the guidebook and I’m a little confused but the grading. I’ve only climbed on U.K. and USA so have only experience U.K. trad and sport and the usa 5 scale. 
 

firstly some of the climbs are graded ‘ VI , lll, V, Vl+ and then 6a and up. 

Secondly there doesn’t seem to be any way to distinguish the routes from trad or bolted. We intend to do both and this doesn’t really matter however it can help locate climbs when you’re staring at a wall. 
 

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks! 

SteveX 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Donny M:

Read this https://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/ , there is possibly something similar in your guidebook.

chris_r 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Donny M:

Where about's are you planning to climb? Someone on here might be able to give some local knowledge.

The grades you quote:

> firstly some of the climbs are graded ‘ VI , lll, V, Vl+ and then 6a and up. 

are the same system as UK sports that you're used to, but will also be applied to trad. Obviously you need to translate the roman numerals so VI is 6, etc.

Have a great trip.

1
HeMa 15 Oct 2019
In reply to chris_r:

Actually the roman numerals could refer to  UIAA grades, and generally they are used for trad or mixed protection climbs.

6a and such are obivously french grades (and often mean that the route is a sport route).

Granted, some times lower grades (up to V+, so ~french 5c) are given the roman numerals even if they are fully bolted... as a 4 is  just so easy, it makes no sense to separate 4a and 4c.

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