Plague, Rivelin

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 gravy 18 Jun 2022

I had a look at this today, perhaps I've missed something...

The move past the "bolt" is way hard, the "bolt" is token protection at best and I didn't see any gear worth placing (think a rusty vine eye left over from the 1970s, my gran's back yard had a similar "bolt" on a concrete post for the washing line).

Does anyone know when the bolt-hole hold was resined over?

Any beta for making this move? I'm not short and just lanking from the undercuts to the break on the left was a good 9" out of my reach. So far my best guess is to get taller, stronger and jump. My guidebook mentions turning it on the right but that seemed unlikely.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rivelin_edge-86/plague-9719

Post edited at 20:13
 Graeme Hammond 18 Jun 2022
In reply to gravy:

Climbed it in December last year my notes were:

Couldn't work out what the resin was up left of the old bolt/hook but didn't use the very poor sloping hold it has formed, I guess it covers another bolt hole or chipped hold? The only way I could past the overlap was by laying one on from the undercuts and a snatch/dyno to the break. The bolt is actually just a thin hook facing downwards into the rock so could open up or snap in the event of a fall given it looks to have seen much better days so elected to tie it off at the stub (how far does that go in?) prior to leading rather than clip it and risk it opening up. Difficult to assess if it would hold much of a fall and the gear below is RPs in a flake so all felt pretty exciting, glad to get this first lead attempt.

Can't remember were I read it at the time but I think someone suggested extending gear from the break above to back up the "bolt/hook" at a lower E grade. Glad I've done it as that hook isn't going to last forever.

OP gravy 19 Jun 2022
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Glad you got it 1st attempt, not sure that there is a 2nd attempt with that bolt...

I think it's too exciting for me to commit to the jump to the break , long preplaced gear from above to back the bolt up might make me feel better about it...


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