UKH

Hey guys.

Planning on going peak district soon, haven't got a guide book. What would you recommend for a area that's 2-3 stars consisting of vd- S? Hoping to camp there over night and kinda stay in the same spot / area. Hoping to climb about 10 routes single pitches. Where would you recommend to start 

Stanage is the obvious choice, loads to go at all within close proximity and plenty of accomodation, food, beer and outdoor shops nearby down in Hathersage 

or Burbage North.  Birchen, Stanage North. there's so much to choose from that getting a book will help you no end. suggest Eastern Grit, it'll last you a life time.

Stanage is the obvious choice, day one walk in to flying buttress area you have flying buttress, trinity right hand and holly bush right by you as well as several other less known routes. Walk on to robin hoods cave stay in the cave overnight (no need for a tent so saves some weight) day two walk on to Mississippi buttress for a whole other set of 3* vd-s.

Would recommend Eastern grit guide though its incredibly good and will make everything easier

As an alternative to buying the guide, try the Rockfax app. Same info as the book, plus loads of other areas and free this month. (And I'm sounding a bit like a Rockfax employee. I'm not, honest.)

How soon?

Until June 30th all the Rockfax quides are free in the app, look up at the banner at the top of the page.

Even if climbing after that you can browse for ideas.

For a first rip I would recomend booking in at North Lees.

https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/getactive/camping/camping-northlee...

Well situated for pubs and shops. Easy to get to Stanage or Burbage North which have lots of suitable routes.

Head to Bamford

Head to the Roaches, you'll struggle to find a better link up on the Eastern edges for variety, length and positions than:

Boomerang (VD)

Phallic Crack (HVD 4a)

Great Chimney (S 4a)

The Arête (VD) (Easily doable in one pitch)

Prow Cracks (VD)

Yong (HVD 4a)

Left-hand Route (S 4b)

Right Route (VD) (Two pitches but you can walk off after one or do it one big pitch)

Pedestal Route (HVD 4a) (Possible to do in one big pitch if you're careful with gear placements, and being under the Sloth roof isn't going to be matched at the grade - some may say Flying Buttress, but it's a poorer climb and smaller roof)

Black and Tans (S 4a) (Two pitch but again, possible in one long one if you're careful)

Maud's Garden (HVD 3c)

Inverted Staircase (D) (Two pitches but second is a blocky scramble through a cave, most people solo)

Probably throw in plenty of other worthwhile two star routes while you're there too.

Or you could head to Birchen! Loads of green spot routes and a lovely setting/easy access.

I second Stanage Popular/Burbage though, if it's your first time, unless you're particularly keen to avoid other people.

Edit: the above at the roaches would also be a great day! Spoilt for choice

Go to popular end Stanage, borrow a guidebook, flick through, use your smart phone, plenty of climbing.

Repeat at the Roaches.

Elsewhere it will be a bit more hit and miss as to whether to find a guidebook to look at within 5 minutes.