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North Quarry Grading

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 clipskipper 07 Oct 2020

Question about North Quarry in Somerset.

Routes here marked as Sport climbs are graded e.g. 4a, 4b, 5b, which look like Trad technical grades. I think I read that the history of the crag is that it originally had Trad routes which have been bolted fairly recently.

Can anyone tell me whether these are actually the old Trad grades, retained on Sport routes?

Thanks

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In reply to clipskipper:

Sport grade innit!

Of course UKC should really have an 'F' in front for clarification.

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 clipskipper 11 Oct 2020
In reply to Mark S Davies:

Thanks Mark.  Just don't normally see 4a or 5b as a Sport Grade

Lee

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 Rod_Vortex 11 Oct 2020
In reply to clipskipper:

The main wall there is very blocky and easy-angled so they will be easy. The retro-bolted trad routes are on the thinner, steeper right wall and range more 6b-7a ish. 

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In reply to Mark S Davies:

That would be more confusing as an F before the grading turns it into a bouldering grade as in font 5 etc rather than a sport route. 

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In reply to climber34neil:

Surely:

f5 - boulder.

F5 - sport.

Mick

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 leland stamper 12 Oct 2020
In reply to clipskipper:

Apologies. Waiting for the new guide book to establish names and grades of routes.

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In reply to climber34neil:

Capital F is what is used for sport and small f for bouldering, as Mick says.

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator UKH Supporter 12 Oct 2020
In reply to clipskipper:

> Routes here marked as Sport climbs are graded e.g. 4a, 4b, 5b, which look like Trad technical grades. I think I read that the history of the crag is that it originally had Trad routes which have been bolted fairly recently.

5a, 6a, 7a etc are sport grades, HS 4b, HVS 5a, E3 6a are trad grades, f5+, f6C+, f7A are bouldering grades,

Chris

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In reply to Mark S Davies:

I meant to put a small f, predictive text sorry

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