UKH

I'm starting a new project at the weekend.

It's steep, crimpy, sustained and has terrible feet.

In the 1-2 days I've got to train, and in absence of a time machine, what is the best equivalent to cramming for an exam I can do?

I should add that so far most of my planning has concerned my packed lunch for the day...

I'd argue that this close to a project session you probably want to be resting for the next couple of days so you're fresh for the weekend. Perhaps a bit of stretching to stay limber would be useful 

Sounds like you have it covered. The only thing you could *possibly* do is some recruitment but depending on the nature of the route you might be better resting

Not sure if this is serious but if it is: 

Battering yourself won't be helpful... But there are a few things you can do.

• Fingerboard session on the relevant grip type. 
  Nothing too intense, but a short series of hangs at close to max intensity (no failing) will help recruit muscle fibres for the specific grip type and leave you feeling a little more solid. 
• Eat less fibre for a few days.
  Following a standard 'low fibre diet' protocol for a couple of days will reduce gut content and leave you a kilo or two lighter depending on how much fibre you habitually consume. 
• Think carefully about shoe choice.
  Seems like footwork needs to be on point for the project, so choosing the right shoe will be helpful. If it's slippy and friction dependent, choose something a little softer. If it's small dime edges or similar, then a stiffer shoe with some downturn will be the way forward. 
• Sleep 8hrs+ per night. 
  Sleep quality has a huge impact on performance so ensuring you allow for a minimum of 8 hours per night and avoiding caffeine after 2pm will help improve your sleep. 
• Eat appropriately on the day. 
  Eating a proper breakfast with a good macro balance and taking a good supply of carbohydrate based foods to the crag (flapjacks, sandwiches etc) will help keep muscle glycogen high which improves max power output and day-endurance. 

Hope this helps  

Thanks folks:

Little bit of recruitment hangs

Little bit of flex and mobility

Much sleep

Sensible diet

Good picnic

Application of talc to my climbing partner's chalk bag

Low fibre for a day = 1-2 kg? Blimey. Is that solely fibre and not the old glycogen dumping/less water retention effect? Would obviously require lots of care as long term effects of low fibre are clearly pretty bad, but that's pretty interesting.

So standard low fibre diet = protein and fat? 

Depends on your usual amount of fibre consumed. For some people, potentially yes. This number is more likely to be observed over 2-3 days for most with a balanced diet. 

There is no glycogen dump with low fibre because you keep carbohydrate intake high - this makes it ideal for a short-term performance intervention because you can cut bodyweight by a few percentage points without affecting power output, mood or sleep quality. 

Its just a short term intervention for a maximum 1-2 week period for when you need to get an edge on a project. 

No, not at all. That's low-carb and totally different - low fibre is avoiding fibrous foods such as vegetables and fruits and wholegrains as the soluble fibre contained in these foods absorbs water in the gut and thereby increases bodyweight. It also takes a while to travel through the gut, hence why just a few days dietary shift can result in a noticeable change. 

In general soluble fibre plays a crucial role in the function of our gut and prevents constipation etc so aside from the obvious health benefits of fibre consumption, there is also a practical 'window' after which this tactic stops being functional 😂 

Hope this helps clarify. 

Interesting.  So what would you eat on a short term low fibre diet if not protein and fat?  Refined carbs?

Sure, a balanced macro diet that avoids high fibre foods. Here's a list: https://www.healthline.com/health/low-fiber-diet