In reply to Firekicker8:
I'll add some character to the story - the routes/problems Josh experienced over one and a half days of climbing:
Drive to Stanage - our Yank is confused by the lack of width in the back roads from Hathersage to Stanage and I think I made a bit of wee come out. I point out stoically that there's sometimes a divider in the road and I've barely got a wheel in the verge when passing oncoming vehicles. Excellent start.
Fern Crack VS ** - horrendously sandbagged both myself and Josh with an awkward offwidth jamming crack as a warm-up. Getting the excuses out: hadn't done trad in over two/three months, new shoes were too big etc. Arrived at the top very warm and quite red. Had to teach Josh how to hand jam before he could get off the ground with some long-range miming (thumb to base of pinkie, then squeeze). A curmudgeonly smugness regarding jamming lasts only until he climbs the offwidth (loose fists) section by means of forearm jams using his oversized muscles.
Tower Face Direct E2 *** - I enjoyed leading this beauty of a route with a committing start, nervy middle and glorious juggy finish - got him to replace a few bits of gear while seconding to get used to it. Felt good actually committing to the boldness despite not doing much trad this season. Met an older lad who was watching and he congratulated me on my send. He was going to rig a top-rope and work the route on a shunt to contemplate the lead as he'd had his eyes on it for quite some time.
Left Unconquerable E1 *** - his first trad lead ever after a bit of gear coaching - he plugged in a bit of gear after the mantle and ran it out like a boss until he realised that he was a bit above his gear. First taste of the fear was realised and present in the moment. He felt a bit happier about the gear after sitting on it a couple of times and then finishing the route. He needed a moment to get himself together after that and was beating himself up for getting pumped on what he felt was an easy route technically (as a 7c+ or 5.13 sport climber). I lead up again to check his gear and he seconded this time to get a feel for the route without placing gear - he said it still felt hard and pumpy prob around 5.10c/d - allowing a slight unbruising of his ego. Another victim to a Joe Brown route!
Was pretty tired from the excitement and decided to skip doing Right Unconquerable and Goliaths Groove, so we ran back to the car to get the pads to let Josh get his bouldering fix. He crushes Deliverance 7B+/V8 on the Pebble (with the help of my secret wizard beta: spit cleaning dusty boots works better than chalking your rubber) in about 20 minutes and The Green Traverse 7A/V6 in less than 10 minutes while I twiddle my thumbs. Feeling less bad about putting him on a Joe Brown route now and starting to think whether I should get him to lead Right Unconquerable, or set him off on Three Pebble Slab at Frogatt, or The Peapod at Curbar. We call it a day as we're hungry and need to get dinner and set up camp.
Dinner Sanghams in Hathersage - Multipitch XS 4b, 4c, 5c (translation: 5.9++RX) - Poppadoms, Starter, Curry and Drinks - huge portions - had to sit on the rope twice before topping out.
Breakfast at the Roaches - we both warmed up on the warm up boulder in order to warm up. I suggested he try Three Pocket Slab 6A/V3 as a harder warm up. He isn't convinced by the tiny pebble after rocking over and drops. I manage to show him the path without wobbling off. Internal smugness and schadenfreude overwhelm me and I try to hide it. He dispatches it quickly next go, my smugness wanes.
We then spend the next little while playing on Stretch and Mantle 6C/V5, learning the perfect beta to do a strenuous deadlift on undercuts and high feet, mid climb, while trying not to do fear farts or poop. He sends, I use the short man and saving my skin for my project excuses and we head off after a brief tour of Roaches Upper Tier.
Churnet after Lunch: We marched up to Wright's Rock in hopes of me getting a few goes on my project - Simple Simon Indirect 7A/V6. Met some cool lads there - Phil and George. Could only do the first bit once, gutted, but it's been a fairly long week and I just didn't have it in me as my crux is usually the finishing match. He gets it second try, moving as inefficiently as possible in order to motivate me into taking up hillwalking. Dickhead. Moving on I manage to send Alternative Three Sit Start 6C/V5 (squat start - I can't reach the holds if I sit on the ground #dwarflife) with bit of a scary cut loose move right at the top. George manages to get this on video and sends it to me (I'll upload it to the link above) - really cool since I never video myself. Josh is crushing hard and sends Fingers Sit-Start 7A+/V7 after finally pulling into the gaston and committing to the tiny crimps above.
We decide to call it a day and half way back to the car we hear and see George topless running at high speed towards us - I had left something up at the crag and he ran down to bring it as I would only have only noticed when I got to the car - absolute gentleman.
Absolutely great weekend, met some great people and took a chance on the UKC Lifts/Partners forum - I've definitely had worse partners from there who overstate their confidence/ability/experience. Finally, I was browsing the logbooks for Tower Face Direct and it turns out the older lad did go for the lead and sent the route!
Apparently Josh will return. Please list below any "classics" to get him to lead next time? Mincer at the Roaches comes to mind, especially for the taller climber.
