"Must do" Intermediate grit cracks

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 RickCorfield 01 Jun 2022

Really started to enjoy getting filthy and bloody whilst ruining all my clothes.

I want more!

So what are the must do crack climbs on grit?

I reckon I'm climbing at the easier end of the crack spectrum (upto VS 5A) so the less fingery the better.

Ultimately I'd like to tick some of the gnarly Ramshaw offerings. That's the goal before I get too old anyway.

 Tony Buckley 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Try both Amazon cracks.  The Stanage one is short and sweet, the Burbage one less so.

Amazon Crack (S 4a)

Amazon Crack (HS 4b)

T.

 midgen 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

I did Sorrell's Sorrow (HVS 5a) last weekend. I haven't really climbed cracks before (apart from being chewed up and spat out by Dexterity (E1 5b) a while ago), cursed all the way up, and swore off cracks when I reached the top....but now I have a strange desire to climb more...

It felt absolutely nails at HVS, whether that's my dreadful jamming or just Curbar...good route though!

 Jim blackford 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

theres a ticklist here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1242

Crewcut (VS 4c) if climbed as an offwidth is really good. 

Bond Street (HVS 5a)

 Gripped 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Nearby by to Ramshaw at Hen Cloud, Batchelors Climb is very good with plenty of other options on the crag.

I was at Running Hill Pits last weekend and Plumb Line there is worth a look.

 Dave Garnett 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

One to save for a long dry spell but an absolute classic and easy for HVS if you can get up the first couple of metres: Great Crack (HVS 5a)

 deepsoup 01 Jun 2022
In reply to Jim blackford:

> Crewcut (VS 4c) if climbed as an offwidth is really good. 

I had a real fright trying to do that when my knee got stuck fast.  I was genuinely beginning to think I was going to need rescuing, but did eventually manage to extricate myself with quite a lot of discomfort and plenty of swearing.  So to anyone who has chunky legs like mine, beware!

To pick a recommendation for the OP almost at random, I'll go with Greeny Crack (VS 4b) on the other side of the bay to Long Tall Sally at Burbage North.

 David Bennett 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield: Try Bond Street at Millstone, it’s as good as it gets. It’s pretty straightforward for HVS and with bomber gear

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/millstone_edge-19/bond_street-1078...

1
In reply to RickCorfield:

Fall Pipe (VS 4c) at Yarncliffe is dirty but very good. Then Cardinal's Crack (VS 4b). Zapple (HVS 5b)if you are going well. 

Count's Crack (VS 4c) at Stanage Plantation. Wall Buttress (HVS 5a) too. Cleft Wall Route 1 (HS 4b) Cleft Wall Route 2 (VS 5a) also meet your requirements.

Via Principia (S 4a) at Shining Clough.

Several offerings at Standing Stones.

Hundreds more. Bamford, Chatsworth, Rivelin, Burbage North (Obscenity (VS 4c), The Grazer (VS 5a)) & South (Byne's Crack (VS 4b)) Gardom's, Wharncliffe ([climb(80017,"The Blue Defile"])...... the list is endless. 

Much fun to be had

 Jimbo C 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

There are literally loads of really good routes up to VS that aren't necessarily 'crack climbs' but where you can milk hand jams for all they're worth - yes, once you get used to them a hand jam is the best possible and most restful type of hold to use.

To name a few not too hard routes where you probably need to jam to make progress:

Outlook Crack (VS 4c)

Hell Crack (VS 4c)

The Real 20-foot Crack (VS 4c) - short but sweet

Cardinal's Crack (VS 4b) - decent length, plentiful optional fist jams

The Rat's Tail (VS 5a) - short but quality Higgar thuggery

Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) - a bit awkward

 George Frisby 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Good crags for hand/fist cracks are Burbage north for HS/low VS, Black Rocks for tougher VSs, hen cloud+wimberry for tough HVSs, Ramshaw for low E grades, curbar got a good bunch of low E wide cracks too. 

Post edited at 13:30
 mrphilipoldham 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

As we're coming to to moorland season, a few 'alternatives' that'll definitely have you bleeding and beaten up...

Phoenix Climb (VS 4c)

Coffin Crack (VS 4c)

Ornithologist's Corner (VS 5a)

The Trident (E1 5b) (HVS 5a when I did it! Might be higher than your limit but it's safe as houses and as big a struggle as you're likely to find anywhere)

Route I (HS 4b) Class...

Layback Crack (HS 4b)

The Drainpipe (HS 4b)

Wedgewood Crack (VS 4c)

Scratchnose Crack (VS 5a)

Twin Crack Corner (VS 4b)

Extinguisher Chimney (VS 4c)

Pantagruel (HVS 5a) (Gets HVS but no harder than Plumb Line (VS 4c) which is also worth a look)

 Michael Gordon 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

The Crank (VS 5a) and as noted above, plenty at Hen Cloud.

OP RickCorfield 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Think I've already ticked the easier ones at Hen cloud and other popular ones in the area, The Crank being my favourite.

Had a few at Burbage the weekend but mostly on second with my mate. I lead Hollyash crack though which as described was a nice "off width intro".

Looking at these replies a trip to Millstone is on the cards. I haven't been there yet.

Thanks guys!

Post edited at 15:04
 Marek 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Can I suggest the "compelling arse" of Goldsitch Crack HVS 4c?https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/newstones_and_baldstones-900/golds...

Bound to leave a smile on some faces.

 Michael Gordon 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

It's a bit further away but this one may be fun:

Desperation Crack (HVS 5b)

 steveriley 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Brown's Crack (HS 4b) fits your brief exactly.

 olddirtydoggy 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Green Crack (VS 4c)

Baker Street (VS 4c)

Are 2 that don't get as much traffic as they should do. There are a couple of crack ticklists you can access via the logs on here.

 climber34neil 01 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

The Mincer (HVS 5b)

Defo this one 

 Andy Hardy 02 Jun 2022
In reply to RickCorfield:

Get thissen to arms cliff.

Z Climb (VS 4c)

For starters but any of the VS cracks there will fit the bill

 TobyA 02 Jun 2022
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Did that yesterday on your recommendation from the other day. Great fun, although the first few metres is good old battle! Once it narrowed down to sideways fists it was fine. With a big cam it's as safe as houses though. My Peruvian climbing partner reckoned seconding Green Crack was easier than his lead of Flying Buttress Direct! 😆

 PaulJepson 02 Jun 2022
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Froggatt is the place to go for HS/VS cracks. If you find Hawks Nest okay, try Broken Crack. 

If you want a bit of a humbling and to use jams ranging from fingers to fists in the space of about 8m, Thrombosis at Stanage is marvellous. 

Fern Crack at Plantation is a great, forceful crack. 

Goliath's Groove mega for a leg-in struggle. 

File at Higgar Tor will be a real test of your jamming as that's all you can do. 

Millstone is not a great venue if you're operating at VS max. 

Great Harry at Lawrencefield will really fit your bill (I know, because I had exactly the same dirty desires as you about a year ago. You're on the right track, soon enough you'll be on the best grade of all.........HVS 5b). 

Burbage North is a good shout, though it's a little short - Mutiny Crack, Amazon Crack, Greeny Crack, Great Crack, Obscenity, Pulcherrime, Brooks' Layback. A good day of HS & VS right there. 

TBH I could list a hundred grit VS hand cracks I'd recommend. I bloody love them. 


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