UKH

Hi all.. This mint sound a bit daft? 🤦‍♂️

I was in Pembrokeshire a few years ago to climb at Mother Careys (Straight gate buttress).. We were climbing the day before at Becks bay and decided to ride over to MC the next day on our bikes!

I had no trouble getting to the carpark and then followed the path on to the grass as it said in the wired guide but unbelievably I couldn't find any buttress at all, yet on the Rockfax app the buttress looks more or less straight ahead after the path?? Also are the abbing point natural or is there the odd stake?

Any beta on finding any of the crags would be appreciated as we're off down there next week and to hopefully get a couple of days in here first 😊

Sounds like if you'd turned left and walked for a bit with the sea on your right you would have got there - there's quite a distinctive saddle/bowl thing with brazen buttress on the left (looking out). No stakes when I was there last year - the ab down brazen buttress is off a big block

When I have been there, I have always used the parking at 51 deg 38 min 46.14 sec N, 4 deg 45 min 54.05 W. Facing the sea to the south, there is a path at the RH end of the car park. Go straight ahead down there for about 180 m until you meet a path at right angles. Turn L. Mother Careys Kitchen south face is about 200 m down here on the RHS. From the top of the cliff here, you should be able to see a very pronounced right angle corner over to your right, facing out, with a bay on your LHS curving around to a series of seaward slabs.

I'll email you a screen capture from Google Earth to show you where I think the top of the South Face is.

We always abbed down Brazen Buttress. It is a popular route so please check there is no one on the route first ! I can't recall if there are stakes in place.

Andy

Is the big block obvious? Thanks by the way 👍

Earlier this year I abbed down the shorter descent which goes to the right (looking out) of Brazen Buttress, down the line of Threadneedle Street. I think that there was a short stake somewhere in the grass well back from the cliff-edge.

The above walking directions are correct. the block is extremely obvious. Needs a 240cm sling. 

Thank you 👍

Here's a picture of the exact location, just in case it's of help.

As per spidermonkey's comments - it's pretty obvious; however, I've also walked straight past it before - and after I'd visited the crag several times before!!

Actually Rob, that's the top of the white tower, not mother Cary's.

White tower is 200m (?) East of MC's.

I think your picture was taken from very close to the top of MC's.

Ahh crap, you're right 😂

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.6444522,-4.7617721,2a,37.5y,124.23h,75.06...

I would say that you don't need to send me this, as I know where it is, but clearly I don't 🤦‍♂️

Starting to see how you walked past it now!

That's it, the less dramatic lump in the middle of ian's picture, with the white tower being the bigger more prominent lump behind it. You can see the flatish block that you can put your abseil rope round, which can also be backed up by nuts or cams in the crack to the right (looking out to sea), if like me you don't like to trust one point even when it is a very solid looking block.

There is (was ?) a decent stake in the the grassy hollow to the right, that would have you abseiling down in the vicinity of the cracks It didn't stand very proud and I did have to hunt for it in the long grass on one occassion.

Stake is definitely still there but it is as you say, not easy to find if you don’t know where it is. It is however a bit on the wobbly side! Only really of use at low tide as it gets you in to the middle of cave opening where the water rushes in and out! I have gone down and swung in to the cave at mid-high tide before now but it makes for an exciting abseil!😀

It's not so much a stake but a girder buried flush with the grass...