Mods for a 5 year old, Eastern Grit

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 ralphio 01 Sep 2022

Looking for suggestions for suitable Mods around Eastern grit for a 5 year old. Have started taking my children out this summer on as easy Mods as I can find. The 7 year old is managing but the 5 year old is a lot shorter and struggles primarily because the hand/foot holds are just too far apart.

Basically what I need is some Mods that are littered with holds every few inches. Can anyone who's been in a similar position recommend some routes they found amenable to young children? Thanks.

 heleno 01 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

I know you've said Eastern Grit but Windgather meets your requirements so well that it might be worth the extra drive.  The rock is a completely different texture to Eastern Grit with ripples a few inches apart.

OP ralphio 01 Sep 2022
In reply to heleno:

Thanks. I have taken them to Windgather once or twice and it was perfect. However, being Sheffield based I'm trying to look for the easy option closer to home!

 Nige M 01 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

The "Away From It All" area right of Stanage Plantation, especially the route Delightful and adjacent Mods.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_plantation-101/delightful-...

Gullies Wall at Baslow Edge, especially the Slab with Route 0 on it and other similar routes just to right.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/baslow_edge-20/

 alan moore 01 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

The Gangplank at Birchens and Centurian Slab at Stanage come to mind.

 Holdtickler 01 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Not grit but Harborough is a great crag for little uns, juggy holds all over the place. 

 GrahamD 01 Sep 2022
In reply to Holdtickler:

Second Harborough.   Its very juggy limestone with kiddy friendly hold spacing.  Basically pock a line you fancy and drop a rope down.

 Holdtickler 01 Sep 2022
In reply to GrahamD:

yeah and like with Windgather, they get to feel like heroes because they can do most of the routes!

 BenTiffin 01 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Gangplank on Birchens

 ChrisBrooke 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

With my 5 year old I’ve just put a rope on and wandered along Burbage North climbing anything that looks reasonable and fun. Descent gullies, easy routes, scrambly ‘unnamed’ bits…. Good fun. 
 

Or there’s Slab Recess (D) and Nursery Slab (M) at Froggatt which should fit the bill. 

 Sam Beaton 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Another vote for Harborough. When my youngest was 5 there were grit Mods he could climb in wellies and others he couldn't touch in climbing shoes with chalk. Grit is generally far too height dependent for grades to mean much for people that little. Apart from chimneys that can be a bit grim. When we went on the grit we just messed about without ropes on descent routes, squeeze gaps, mini isolated boulders too small for proper bouldering etc

 Holdtickler 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Another possible lime suggestion, which others can confirm as my memory is hazy, would be Pleasley Vale. There's a nice corner around the R side of the first buttress which climbs like a ladder and I think the hold spacing was good. Hopefully a a local can confirm...

Sadly it look like there are access issues now at Brassington, which is like Harborough's sister crag. Bit of a jungle in high summer anyway.

 Offwidth 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Try the Burbage South Valley boulders. The first ones you reach on the track are covered in pock marks and are ideal for kids... then you can wander over to The Whale boulder and body belay them on the big slab. There is loads of other stuff as well, mostly unlisted in the guidebooks:

Details here (its an old site that needs a Flash enabled browser, like Puffin):

https://offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html

In terms of climbs, Dovestones Edge in the Chew is a great longer day out with a few good  Mods  on the far left of the edge. Again some are unlisted in the guidebooks, but details here:

https://offwidth.uptosummit.com/ravenstones&dovestones.html

Post edited at 08:56
 Offwidth 02 Sep 2022
In reply to Holdtickler:

Pleasley is OK (the Mod is superb) but more limited  and more reachy than Harborough and has "urban issues" at times (and rural ones if the cows have been shitting at the base  ) Brassington had access issues for decades with a brief window of hope just before the new definitive came out.

Just remembered the back slabs on Black Rocks are good kids fun (again needs a rope).

Post edited at 09:22
OP ralphio 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ralphio:

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, enough there to keep them busy.

 deepsoup 02 Sep 2022
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> With my 5 year old I’ve just put a rope on and wandered along Burbage North climbing anything that looks reasonable and fun. Descent gullies, easy routes, scrambly ‘unnamed’ bits…. Good fun. 

Higgar Tor is a good shout for that sort of thing too, lots of great opportunities for 'weaselling' with little ones.  Big Slab might work well for the young one to pad up the slab on a toprope.  (Though I'm not sure how easy it would be to set up a bottom-rope.  When I did it with friends and their kids a few years ago I just sat on top of the slab and body-belayed the wee ones.)

I'm not so sure about Slab Recess and Nursery Slab - they are quite blocky, I suspect if you're really small they might feel rather reachy between big holds.

Not (quite) in the Peak and not really grit, the 'popular end' of Wharncliffe might be worth exploring.

 Offwidth 02 Sep 2022
In reply to deepsoup:

Good call. It's easy to bottom rope the big slab at Higgar South... done it quite a few times.... just put a big sling over the top and clip it to a runner lower down the back if nervous. It might be a bit hard though and its less comfy to sit and body belay at the top than The Whale. There is also the big low angled slab below Stanage Apparent  North for a more scrambling experience.

Post edited at 10:09

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