UKH

Would a 40m rope be alright?

It’s a long time since I’ve done it but I’m thinking 105m over 4 pitches suggests you’ll get by with 40m.

What are the pitch lengths listed in the guidebook?

Thanks Graeme. The SMC guide says 35, 25, 25 and 20.

Do you reckon 40 metre would be ok? Or is it a bit too tight maybe?

Sounds right. When we did it I belayed  incorrectly about 5m short on the first pitch.  If it’s 35m, 40m should be fine. Just remember to keep going until you reach the end of the groove.

Probably best to take slings for belays rather than use the rope.

40m is fine and saves weight. If you go to far back for a belay on top out pitch you'll be at the end of the rope. Did it a few weeks ago on a 40m. 

Enjoy! 

Much appreciated Graeme. Got a couple of 240cm slings - should do the trick.

Brilliant. Thanks Climbpsyched. Been looking forward to this one.

I think I first did it with a 120 ft #4 hawser laid, the standard for those days. Most stuff that was done before the early 70's would have been done with a single 120ft rope.

So yes.

Fine if you're just doing Agags and topping out. If you're wanting to ab back down and do another route you'd ideally want some halfs and a bit longer. (You could equally scramble back down curved ridge though if you're wanting another route).

No doubt obvious, but if that 40m is a single your options for retreat become greatly reduced. Worth considering if you or your partner don’t have plenty of grades in hand.

Thanks. That is a good point. My brother who I'll be climbing with has some experience from the early 90's, but he's just now getting back into it. We've built a decent rack (including expensive cams) and used it at Auchinstarry Quarry and Blackford Quarry a few times. We go to Ratho to the indoor walls; I've done a lead up the 30m tower at 5+ while my brother regularly leads 6+. I'm a novice but I can belay from above and below no problem and build a belay from an anchor no problem too. Fear shouldn't be too much of an issue either- I went up curved ridge myself yesterday setting off from the car at 6:30 in thick mist and starting up D Buttress by mistake, which was most unpleasant (understatement of the year). Eventually got on to curved ridge after down climbing steep exposed, sodden wet ledges which was super awkward and very dangerous, and traversing right. I scrambled above the mist with views of a stunning inversion and had a good wee study of Agag's before completing the ridge and climbing Crowberry Tower, which felt like a cake walk compared to the situation I was in a bit earlier. You live and learn. Cheers

I think on this occasion we'll either scramble down curved ridge or continue up and come down great gully buttress, which is a fair bit easier. Will look into half ropes after a couple of outings though - I've spent a small fortune already acquiring just the basic necessities.

Sounds like you’ll be fine. Long 5+ routes at Ratho will help give you the endurance to get the gear in, and the scrambling nouse should help with the route finding and keeping a cool head. Enjoy it, it’s a fun route!

Thanks Siderunner. It looked a bit intimidating to be honest. Still can't wait to get on it though. Probably won't be this weekend coming unfortunately. Looks like rain. Lots of rain    :  (