Loss of FDP tendon in little finger

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 iceaxejuggler 23 Dec 2019

Managed to cut my hand on a can and sever a tendon. They repaired the tendon and it looked like I would get back to pretty much normal, but then the tendon ruptured. They repaired it, but it ruptured again. They can't repair it again. I am now without a FDP tendon in the little finger of my right hand. This has made me a lot weaker in that hand and it's going to be hard to place my small finger, as I can't move my finger at the second joint. I'm feeling pretty down in relation to climbing. Has anyone experienced anything similar? Anyone got any tips?

 dinodinosaur 23 Dec 2019
In reply to iceaxejuggler:

I haven't got any specific tips but I do know Tommy Caldwell is missing part of one of his fingers and it hasn't held him back. Watch the dawn wall film and you'll see his approach to his injury and how he overcame it. 

It may take a while for strength to come without the pinky but it certainly isn't curtains for your climbing. If trad is your thing try going and doing adventurous routes at amenable grades while you build that strength. 

I hope that you find a way to continue enjoying climbing 

 Iamgregp 23 Dec 2019
In reply to iceaxejuggler:

Sorry to hear that you’ve had such a nightmare with this.  Again I have no specific knowledge or experience to help but I don’t think this has to be then end of climbing for you.

The little finger isn’t the most important or powerful in the hand. Other people have suffered worse and still gone on to do great things. 

Placement wise can you buddy tape it to your ring finger and let that one help with putting it in the right place (even if it’s not actually generating any power when there)?

I can only imagine how low you must feel (I get that way myself when I get even the slightest of injuries) but try to remember this isn’t forever and you will begin to feel better

Post edited at 19:08
 Dan Arkle 23 Dec 2019
In reply to iceaxejuggler:

Some good advice above. 

I think it would be very unlikely for this to become the limiting factor in your climbing. 

 douwe 23 Dec 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I've had an unspecified injury in my right hand pinky in the past which caused me to tape the pinky stiff so I wouldn't use it while climbing for about 6 months. In no way that held me back at the time, on the contrary I got a lot stronger during that period. 

So as mentioned above, it's unlikely the use of your pinky is going to be a limiting factor in your climbing.


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