UKH

Following a discussion on favourite route styles, I am looking for routes that fit the following criteria; 

In South West (uk)

VS, trad

Juggy

Solid Rock 

Good protection 

Steep

listed in order of importance.

As I like slabs I seem to have difficulty in thinking of suitable routes.

Cornwall is stuffed with things that should suit you.  Read the guides for Bosigran and Chair Ladder and try not to drool.

T.

Double Overhang (VS 4c)

South Face Direct, Chair Ladder. Ticks all the boxes. Heaven!

6 from personal experience that might be what you are after...

Leviathan, Dewerstone VS 4c

Demo Route, Sennen HS

Moonraker, Berry Head HVS 5a

Triton, Daddyhole VS 5a

Inkerman Groove VS 4c

Hangover, Haytor E2 5c

This. South face direct is the dictionary definition of safe juggy steep VS.

If your visiting Haytor you really should add Outward Bound to your tick list, first route that came to mind. Huge holds, just keep going. It’s a Patey route which is always a stamp of quality.

Outward Bound (HVS 4c)

Detergent Wall (HVS 5a) is just as good as S Face Direct

Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) is awesome

Anvil Chorus (VS 4c) is a bit harder and steeper for the grade - but also very good

Steve

And Suspension Flake (VS 4c) at Hound Tor.

"Suspension Flake goes up the huge jug filled flake on the Eastern face of the Perched Block".

Please can somebody tell me where the jugs are on the chimney, as I seem to have missed them every time I've done it

There's a bomber jam in it; you just have to make about 30cm of horrifically insecure vertical progress to get there.  

State of Independence (VS 4b) at Shorncliff is a very juggy VS but you have to be happy running it out from the concretions to the top. The crux is below there, so it's fine, but you need to be reasonably unruffled. 

Some Dorset options for you. Yes, HVSs when you asked for VSs, but it's because they're steep and sustained and all with good protection. 

Silhouette Arête (VS 4c)

The Heidelberg Creature (HVS 4c)

Finale Groove (HVS 4c)

Thor (HVS 5b)

Aventura (HVS 4c)

Jo (HVS 5a)

Lightning Wall (HVS 5a)

Anything in Pembroke or Swanage, beautiful dry clean limestone sea cliffs, south-facing and covered in amazing routes. 

Look at Crystal Slabs:  http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Pembroke3_Cry...

Hi thanks to all the posters with the suggestions, there is plenty to keep me browsing for a while and hopefully climbing a fair few this summer .

second this. superb route!! ...if only it were a little bit longer.

also, you want a confident seconder on this

Supernatural at Carn Gowla - quite an adventure for VS. Supernatural (VS 4b)

Fogou (VS 4c)

Senior's Wall (VS 4c)

Scar (VS 4b)

Raven Wing (VS 4b)

Hermeda (VS 4b)

Questor (VS 4c)

Silent Movie (VS 4b)

Oak Tree Zag Zig (VS 4c)

Coldfinger (VS 4c)

Elrond (VS 4c)

Plexus (VS 4b)

These Crystal Slab routes would be steep and juggy?