UKH

Hey guys!

I'm looking to collect experience for the Austrian mountain guide scheme and will be in the UK for a few months. 

I know it will be rare but if there is a 300m+ route in the UK (HS- E1)??

 it would be great to tick some off at the same time I visit..

But otherwise best longest routes or areas with a few longer nice routes in the UK to recommend? HS to E1 

Thanks!

Kris 

Definitely some things on Ben Nevis, maybe a few on some of the other bigger Scottish crags e.g. Shelterstone in the Cairngorms, Beinn Eighe in Torridon

Hi Kris, not the longest routes in The UK, but Creag an Dubh-loch has a good selection of routes VS upwards around 300m or so in length. It also has a relatively quick descent back to the base of the crag so if you're quick might be able to get a couple of routes in.

A lot of the routes do require a long spell of dry weather. A Likely Story (HVS) is a good, albeit shorter back up route if Creag an Dubh loch is sopping.

South of the border, Avernus (HVS) on the Lleyn usuaually makes an appearance on threads of this topic (of which there have been a few in the past I think).

There are also plenty of excellent enchainments in the grade range you indicate - especially in North Wales.

Wonderland (E1 5c)

Since I've got the Scottish Rock Climbs guide on the desk right now.....

Arran

South Ridge Direct (VS 5a), 400m VS

Glen Coe

The Chasm (Summer) (VS), 450m VS

Clachaig Gully (Summer) (S), 520m, S

Ben Nevis

Bayonet Route (HS) into North East Buttress (VD), 600m? HS/VD

Minus One Direct (E1 5b), 295m E1

The Long Climb (VS), 420m, VS

The Bullroar (HVS 5a), 285m, HVS

Centurion (HVS 5a), 190m, HVS (hard to leave out!)

Shelter Stone & Creag an Dubh-loch

The Needle (E1 5a), 270m, E1

Cyclops (HVS 5a), 290m, HVS

Black Mamba (VS 4c), 320m, VS

Skye & NW Highlands

Cioch Direct (S 4a) into Arrow Route (VD) into Integrity (VS 4c), 290m up to HS

Mongoose Direct (E1 5b) or King Cobra (E1 5b), 180-200m, E1

Central Buttress (Summer) (VS), 280m, VS

Fionn Buttress (VS 4c), 240m, VS

1.3 Km. 

You can do some long enchainment's on the buchaille too that do feel more like one long route than most enchainments.

Something like start of North Face Route (S) ->  HIccup (VS) -> Grooved Arete (VS)  -> (Crowbertty Tower (2 scramble)  would give over 300 meters of rock climbing and a couple of hundred meters of scrambling from the bottom of the buchailles main rock band to the top. 

Not sure how long this is but it's great and lots of pitches and in Wales.The West Buttress Girdle (HVS 5a)