In reply to Tyler:
> I have some lightweight rocks which I never use, they either seem too likely to pull out when used in the lit proper orientation and the chances of an offset matching the offset of a crack seems a bit unlikely to me.
The single wire ones? I was using my friend's while on holiday the other week and again thinking I should buy my own set they seem to work so well! Different strokes and all that.
On offsets as soon as you start using them, you'll see that most cracks are slightly offset and they seem to fit everywhere! I bought HB Offsets as my first ever nuts as I didn't know the difference, so I've had three decades of using them, but I find I tend to place them more on all rock types than "normal" nuts. I bet if you give them a go, maybe on some easier routes where you're not super stressed trying to get gear in, and soon you'll find they go everywhere and feel really secure.
In reply to the OP:
I reckon my Torque nuts are now my least used bit of my rack - I don't necessarily even take them out any more for summer climbing, although they remain part of my core rack for winter routes.
Post edited at 13:38