Least used...

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 Greenbanks 19 Aug 2022

Having a gear sort. Encountered this old-school item. On reflection it was the least used piece of kit I've ever owned (think I had a range of sizes). Awkward to place & seat and often became just an irritating addition to my harness. Anyone got a similar piece of redundant hardware?

PS. No idea what name these were marketed as...


 Tyler 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I think they were called Cogs?

I have some lightweight rocks which I never use, they either seem too likely to pull out when used in the lit proper orientation and the chances of an offset matching the offset of a crack seems a bit unlikely to me. 

OP Greenbanks 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Tyler:

Although I did say they were difficult to seat, I do recall losing one on a winter ascent of a route on Tryfan - try as he did, my mate couldn't remove it. On reflection, it was best left there!

 petegunn 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

A proper "seagull basher" that one!

 fmck 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I forgot I had one or two of them and yes no memory of them being useful. 

 bpmclimb 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Tyler:

> I have some lightweight rocks which I never use, they either seem too likely to pull out when used in the lit proper orientation and the chances of an offset matching the offset of a crack seems a bit unlikely to me. 

No more unlikely, in my experience, than a crack which is exactly symmetrical and the same depth all the way in. I think it's more down to what you're really used to using. Initially not keen, I've gradually become a fan of offsets and now reach for them at least as often as regular nuts - for what it's worth.

 Ciro 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Tyler:

Offsets are brilliant gear IMO - on sea cliffs it's rare I'll climb a route without using at least a couple of them.

 EarlyBird 19 Aug 2022
In reply to bpmclimb:

Me too - at least the DMM version. I don't get on with lightweight Rocks.

 TobyA 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Tyler:

> I have some lightweight rocks which I never use, they either seem too likely to pull out when used in the lit proper orientation and the chances of an offset matching the offset of a crack seems a bit unlikely to me. 

The single wire ones? I was using my friend's while on holiday the other week and again thinking I should buy my own set they seem to work so well! Different strokes and all that.

On offsets as soon as you start using them, you'll see that most cracks are slightly offset and they seem to fit everywhere! I bought HB Offsets as my first ever nuts as I didn't know the difference, so I've had three decades of using them, but I find I tend to place them more on all rock types than "normal" nuts. I bet if you give them a go, maybe on some easier routes where you're not super stressed trying to get gear in, and soon you'll find they go everywhere and feel really secure.

In reply to the OP:

I reckon my Torque nuts are now my least used bit of my rack - I don't necessarily even take them out any more for summer climbing, although they remain part of my core rack for winter routes.

Post edited at 13:38
 EdS 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I've a few smaller ones and used them for 30 years - love them.

How big is that one?

 Michael Hood 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

Weren't they made by Clog, so marketed as Clog Cogs.

Would be from around the time that hexentrics were king and wanting some of that asymmetric camming nut market.

Post edited at 16:03
 C Witter 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

Least used...

All my winter gear, because lining up conditions, partners and free time is like herding snow leopards...

1
 French Erick 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

not quite as per OP but I carry a skyhook with my nutkey all the time. I have only used twice in anger… but was I happy on those 2 occasions boy!

In reply to Greenbanks:

Clog cogs. Anybody remember the advert in Crags magazine with the young lady having one wedged between her knees and the strap line “buy me and stop one”

OP Greenbanks 19 Aug 2022
In reply to EdS:

Measures 4cm x 3cm. I reckon I’ve got a bigger one knocking around, which is about 7cm x 5cm. Don’t think I ever used it in anger.

 Marek 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I've got a deadman that I've never used and haven't even carried in years. And pegs - for winter, just in case. Ditto, never used.

I suppose I've never 'used' my helmet, just carried it on my head. But I think I'll stick with it.

 Xharlie 19 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I'd have immediately responded by nominating my ski-crampons (Harscheisen), a year ago, but, last Winter, I actually, properly, genuinely deployed them in ernest.

And they made all the difference! I absolutely rocketed up that last five vertical metres of icy shite at the top of our tour and, had I not had them, I'd have had to toe-point in boots and not had my skis on the summit.

... all of five metres below.

 Michael Gordon 20 Aug 2022
In reply to Marek:

> I've got a deadman that I've never used and haven't even carried in years. > 

The same for many on here I suspect, who've bought and took it the first few occasions, thought 'not carrying that bloody thing around anymore' and now resides deep at the bottom of many, many cupboards UK-wide. 

 Doug 20 Aug 2022
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I've used a deadman a few times although wouldn't carry it unless I thought I was likely to use it for a belay. But somehow I ended up with a deadboy which I don't think I've ever used

 Rob Exile Ward 20 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

We called them 'wobbly wobblies' for obvious reasons, and I remember their owner counting on them to protect him on Tangerine Dream.

Funnily enough he's a sport climber now.

 pec 21 Aug 2022
In reply to Christheclimber:

> Clog cogs. Anybody remember the advert in Crags magazine with the young lady having one wedged between her knees and the strap line “buy me and stop one”

This one,

http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32319

Those were the days

Post edited at 13:09
 Michael Hood 21 Aug 2022
In reply to pec:

So dated, so sexist by today's standards, and yet at the time such advertising seemed perfectly acceptable - although being a teenager at that time may have hormonally affected my perceptions 😁

In reply to pec:

That’s the very one! Good website cheers for the link.

And who can remember the Black Whip rope?

http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=33007

 pencilled in 21 Aug 2022
In reply to Greenbanks:

I have a Yates Screamer. Never used, it now connects the dogs to the lash points in my van. 


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