In reply to gravy:
This does touch on a serious point, I live in Chesterfield and often drive through Stoney at all times of the day-week and there is often a lot of cars parked in the spots for Horseshoe, horsethief, goddards etc. There are a lot of mediocre bolted routes around, thousands. But, climbing has rocketed in popularity, certainly in the 30 years I've been bothering rocks, and if these thousands of mediocre bolted routes - and I'm thinking all over the UK here, didn't exist then the pressure on established crags would be enormous and damaging. If Portland was still an esoteric trad tot-fest think of the state Swanage would be in. If Horseshoe was a truck yard guarded by psycho hounds think of the extra pressure on Froggatt or Birchen.
I'm a big fan of masses of mediocre routes, they absorb the numbers, slow the degradation of long time classics and spread the impact of our sport, so I won't trade any.
Post edited at 18:20