UKH

So... Shauna 36+ and Janja 35+ ...that’s what’s showing on the scoring App.

Is this still the official scoring? Both “look” to have fallen from the same place. Anyone heard how the judges justify the scores?

Presumably, the position of the right hand had something to do with it... 

Yes, Janja's double clutch method meant she didn't secure 36 in control before moving off it, unlike the others.

Thanks. Pretty sublte diffrence. Intresting that a double clutch doesn't count as securing a hold. Who knew?

So 36 was in fact the right hand side of the hold she had already used with her left hand and not the next hold? It was easy to assume that the better hold she had with the left hand before she came off was 36. 

Thanks for clearing up my confusion Natalie.

That's not exacltly what I'm reading in to it but without reviewing the video again I'm not sure how to express my understanding of the events...

No, if she had held it it would have been fine, but she didn't catch either hold. Using this method means that she didn't secure the pinch with her hand hand before moving to the big sloper as Shauna and others did. Not entirely sure of what holds were marked with which score, but either way the others were in control on a hold with their right hand which was one hold higher than the one that Janja's right hand was last in control on. 

Counting back from 37 which Shauna failed to latch (hence 36+ score). I "thought" I saw Janga static holding 36 with left and 34 with right then attempt a double cluch move to take 37 with left and either 35 or 36 with the right.

Ok, I understand now. From looking again at the video and seeing Shauna's sequence it becomes clear that the holds are not scored in the order right to left along the traverse but in the sequence Shona takes them.

i.e.  from L-R the holds score 37-35-36-34 where 37 is the hold Shuana didn't latch and 34 is the white and black triangle....

See video, Shauna at 4:56 and Janga at 4:06

youtube.com/watch?v=0UQM0kx18Jc&

It does seem counter intuitive that the holds are scored with refrence to the setter's intended sequence rather than phycical position along the traverse.

The hold on the white and black volume is actually 33, the pinch immediately to it's left is 34 and 36, 34 when you get it with one hand and 36 once you drop into it with the other after getting 35 the middle black hold.

It's not counter intuitive once you get to grips with how it works. The scoring system is also subject to change should a competitor go out of sequence and make it work to get further along the route. 

Thanks. That's good to know. I'll still argue "counter intuitive" is correct.

Its certainly counter intuitive to those of us (ie virtually everybody) who couldn't conceive of climbing these routes......especially onsight with only 6 mins observation. 

I've route judged at world cup level, and some of the sequences are pretty hard to fathom, until you actually see someone climb them.....and as jpalmieri points out, there is facility to change the scoring sequence if a climber does get a bit "independent" on the route reading front (now that really is when the judging gets awkward....). However the route setters generally get it right, and how they come up with these routes that usually manage to separate the best in the world shows skill, creativity and experience that is beyond me. And thats having worked closely with their routes for years.

Sorry Jack but a hold can be a duo hold eg 24/25 but it can not be 24/26. This is just how the Rules work.

(ps that's all from me on this and other WCH issues )

Ah I really didn't know that. I just assumed since they could score twice they could also have gaps in the numbers that they were scored. I've barely had chance to watch any of the combined this week, and couldn't really avoid results and watch it all back at a convenient time like i sometimes would, so i've just watched the highlights and quickly assumed that was the scoring on those holds.

Why was Janja's score so then? She went off the same left hand as everyone else? 

Don't leave us all hanging Graeme join in haha.