In reply to Penistone:
This shows what a wonderful, uncomplicated, straightforward, but very sharp guy he was. I got to know him a bit in the late 60s (in Norway, etc), then later he helped me a lot with my Peak book (Right Unconquerable, etc), but I'm happy to say I visited him again not many months before he died, and although he was very frail, the old spark was still there. He lightened up when I started talking about climbing, and we then talked for nearly two hours ... a very treasured memory indeed.
Later addition: He was so astonishingly clear in the way he spoke (no ums or ers, and none of this dreadful new trend of peppering sentences with 'like') that you'd think he had postgraduate degree. But he left school at the age of 14 or 15. A very great man, with an inner greatness that is very hard to define.
Post edited at 23:09