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If Hard Rock included Ireland?

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Tom Ripley 27 Mar 2020

What routes would be included in the hypothetical Irish section of Hard Rock?

I guess I’m looking for in the region of twenty routes. To qualify the routes must be:

-In Northern or Southern Ireland

-Be between VS and E3/4 in difficult 

-Have a first ascent no later than 1980, otherwise they won’t really fit in the Hard Rock idiom. 

NB: Whilst the climbs themselves do not have to be of the highest quality, they must be strong lines and of historical significance. They must also be geographically and geologically diverse, as well as representing a range of climbing styles. Ie: they can’t be all at Fairhead!

Having never climbed in Ireland I am not in anyway qualified to comment, but hopefully this thread will provide inspiration for a post lockdown trip. 
 

Tom

 greg_may_ 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Any of the classic E2s in Dalkey Quarry would go on that list. But I'd need to dig out a guidebook to check the ascent dates. 

Tower Ridge Direct
Erewhon
The Ghost
The Shield

 smally 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

You might want to rephrase the term ' Southern Ireland'!

1
 Tom Ripley 27 Mar 2020
In reply to smally:

> You might want to rephrase the term ' Southern Ireland'

Sorry.

Routes must be on the island of Ireland?

 smally 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Sounds good.

Like you say, when it's all possible again, a visit to other cliffs than The 'Head , Burren or Mournes is very high on the list.

Cheers Iain

In reply to Tom Ripley:

At Fair Head I think An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b) and Equinox (E2 5b) would probably be the two obvious options, although clearly far more could be included because they're all so good.

Electra (E1 5b) in the Mourne Mountains would seem like another one that would fit the bill, as would The Ramp (E1 5b) and Through the Looking Glass (E3 5c) at Ailladie.

In Donegal Main Mast (E2 5b) fits the bill perfectly and I'm sure Iain Miller would be more than happy to suggest some sort of stack that would act as an adequately amusing stopper route.

This is no means an exhausitve list, just a few that came off the top of my head, so so I'm sure someone with superior knowledge could come up with a better list. That said, I doubt you'd have a dull few days in doing all of the above!

Basically Tom, get your arse over to Ireland...

 Lankyman 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Main Mast on Sail Rock, Co. Donegal would be a cert. Plenty on Ailladie too eg The Ramp, Marchanded Crack, Gallows Pole and many, too many more!

 Sean Kelly 27 Mar 2020
In reply to greg_may_:

Really? It reminded me of Wilton quarry. Not in any list of mine.

1
 petegunn 27 Mar 2020
 Doug 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

I can't remember any individual routes but remember that Glendalough was very enjoyable on my only visit some 30+ years ago and the logbook for the crag here on UKC says "Superb climbing on clean rock in a fantastic scenic location. Some absolute classic routes especially in the VS/HVS range." Glendalough (Ireland)

Any locals care to comment ? At the time it seemed to be one of the major Irish crags but maybe as its  relatively close to Dublin.

 Lankyman 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

In 1981 I climbed Monastir Direct when on a Fermanagh caving trip. That was a very good climb in a very unusual location, rising directly above a stream cave entrance.

In reply to Doug:

I believe Spillikin Ridge (E3 4c) was the one Ken had intended to include:

"NB Ken Wilson adds: Anyone wishing to complete their Hard Rock ticks should do Totalitarian (E1), Raven Crag, Thirlmere (earmarked to replace Deer Bield Buttress) and probably Spillikin Ridge (E3) in Wicklow to introduce a major (and woefully neglected) Irish climb of the same era)."

source: https://www.needlesports.com/Information/Features/Hard-Rock

Post edited at 11:09
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I second those, Main Mast is incredible

In reply to Ramon Marin:

What’s that crag in Donegal with those square-cut roofs? Is it called Muckros? I forget the name of the big roof there, but that would be a candidate, perhaps?

jcm

 mrphilipoldham 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

I had a month in Dublin for work last summer and thoroughly enjoyed Cracks On The Garden Of Eden (VS 4c) and especially Prelude-Nightmare (VS 4c). I'd love to go back and do more.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Elvis (E3 6a) and Stormy Petrel (E4 6a) are the two classics there. Great routes, but Main Mast is probably more Hard Rock-esq in style. 

 Ian Parnell 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Another vote for Main Mast

 Andy Moles 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Main Mast (E2 5b) for sure.

At Fair Head...well, take your pick. There are about 30 routes that would be appropriate. Agree with Rob that An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b) is probably the most quintessentially Hard Rock in style.

Not sure about Ailladie, as it's mostly single pitch. Muckros is way too small.

In the Mournes, same goes for Electra. I'd go for one of the rarely climbed longer routes on  Slieve Beg or  Ben Crom, proper quiet neglected mountain crags but quality when clean.

Don't know other areas well enough to say.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Can’t we have both?

Elvis;,that was the one I was thinking of. We didn’t have much time, although long enough to injure myself on the warm up and have to be driven back to base with my arm in a makeshift sling. Still, it looked a fun place.

jcm

 Lankyman 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

> Not sure about Ailladie, as it's mostly single pitch.

The Ramp is two pitches (rising traverse) with a superbly sited belay. It would be stupendous on an incoming tide.

 McHeath 27 Mar 2020
In reply to petegunn:

I'm imagining that great photo taken from a viewpoint a bit lower down so that the climber's chalk bag isn't resting on the distant hills; the left part cropped; the green and red guy photoshopped out and replaced by "Hard Irish Rock" in yellow, and the name "Ken Wilson" at the bottom. I'd have bought it instantly, even though my Irish experience to date consists of a memorable three day RB&B tour of the Dublin pubs with my son to celebrate his graduation. 

 Lankyman 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

30 years ago I walked up to Lough Belshade with the Donegal guide and a following of hungry midges. Sadly, the weather crapped out but the routes look absolutely belting. If they're as good as they sound then a few of them would be worthy contenders - Classical Revival, Midgesummer Nightmare and Land of Hearts Desire all 3 Star HVS/E1.

In reply to Tom Ripley:Luggala Co.Wicklow

Clingon-Claidheamh Solis

Dance of the Tumblers (biased in this!)

 dominic lee 28 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Pis Fliuch HVS at Ailladie must be a contender at the low end. Pipped by The Ramp I expect.

Post edited at 07:42
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> I believe Spillikin Ridge (E3 4c) was the one Ken had intended to include:

Yes it was. He regretted missing out Spillikin Ridge from Hard Rock and Right Angle from Classic Rock. Still, you can't win 'em all. Too late, he found an essay by the late Ronnie Wathen about making an early ascent of Spillikin Ridge. He said that if he'd found it before, he'd have put it straight into Hard Rock.

In 1969, the late Jimmie McKenzie, a simply wonderful climber (brilliant footwork!), who did the FA of Pis Fliuch, took me up the first, easier half of Spillikin Ridge, as far as Spillikin Ledge. We went left, across the crux of Fanfare, into the crux of Scimitar Crack - a much easier way up the crag. Since then, Spillikin Ridge has been the route I most want to do (better not leave it too much longer!)  That day, in '69, was outstandingly eventful. So much was going on in the valley. Pretty much all the elements of Greek tragedy were present. It will be very emotional going back. 

Mick

1
 johnyo 28 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Tricky to only think of a few but heres one take on routes for the North. Could have so many others in their place! All are reasonably varied in their style of climbing.

Fairhead

An Bealach Runda E1 - Feels out there, on an out there crag.

Equinox E2 - Cenotaph corner x2 

Salango E3 - The strongest of lines and very few cheater crimps!

Mournes:

Virgo VS, Pigeon Rock - Roadside multipitch journey, briliant. 

Satanic Majesty E2, Slieve Beg - About as remote as it gets in the Mournes.

Warhorse E4, Spellack  - Quintessential Mournes, scary but safe slab climbing. Single pitch but quite the journey. 

Blood Strangers on Ben Crom would be in there if it wasn't for the fact it was climbed in 1984, bit beyond the year limit.

 Andy Moles 28 Mar 2020
In reply to Tom Ripley:

> -Have a first ascent no later than 1980, otherwise they won’t really fit in the Hard Rock idiom. 

Not true of the new edition - I think quite a few of those are post 1980. Prophecy of Drowning was 1996.

 Alex Riley 29 Mar 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Am bealach rhunda has had a few mentions already, defiantly fits style of the book.

I made a vid of the route a few years ago whilst at the meet, links below for anyone interested first bit is filler (although perhaps a realistic representation of the weather..), climbing starts a bit further in at 1:15.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7J1uSVNuAXc&

Post edited at 12:27
In reply to Tom Ripley:

> Sorry.

> Routes must be on the island of Ireland?

Hahahaha I think you just mean Ireland and Northern Ireland

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