How do I to contribute to central belt crags?

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 DizzyVizion 12 Jun 2020

Is there a way to make a contribution towards bolts and things? Who maintains the outdoor climbs at Ratho for instance? Thanks

 JLS 12 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

There aren’t really any organised “bolt funds” in Scotland.

The 7a-max guide guys have apparently donated some money to somebody. But mostly it’s just keen individuals with some support from their friends.

If you see someone maintaining bolts, slip them some cash.

 kwoods 12 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Bolts aside, the greatest limit on climbing in the central belt (majority trad) are overgrowing routes.

OP DizzyVizion 12 Jun 2020
In reply to JLS:

There's a way to donate on the 7a max website which I've just now done.

Thanks JLS

OP DizzyVizion 12 Jun 2020
In reply to kwoods:

I really should invest in a wire brush really. Love your videos and blog btw. Top source for inspiration!

OP DizzyVizion 12 Jun 2020
In reply to el diablo:

Thanks eldiablo. I've donated on another site already. May donate again in future though and if so, I will find your comment and use your link.

 kwoods 12 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Cheers!

Incidentally I was at Dumbuck today and some of the bolts there are looking pretty shocking! It would be interesting if something like a bolt fund was developed for Scotland, centrally at least or country-wide...

 Dr Toph 14 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Hi, thanks on behalf of 7aMax for your donations and interest in the upkeep of fixed gear. We do have a pot of funds available in the bolt fund which was in the process of being allocated to re-equipping projects but then the lockdown stopped everything in its tracks.
Now that we can start to move again, and there seems to be interest in restoring our crags to good condition, either let us know about a venue in need of improvement, or if you are experienced enough to do the work yourself, send us an application. We realize that what we have to offer may not completely cover the materials and graft required to re-equip a set of routes, but we are very happy when we can support those who are willing to get out there and do the hard work.

At this time we are only supporting the re-equipping or upgrading of existing lines, not the development of new routes.

Contact details and application forms can be found on our website www.7amax.co.uk

Thanks!

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Dr Toph:

Thank you Dr Toph. And thank you for the brilliant book! Will be putting your book to good use during this great weather. I'm a novice at the moment but if at some time in the future I feel competent enough to bolt routes, I'll use my own pennies (save the fund money 👌)

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Dr Toph:

Hi again. Sorry, just a quick question- on UKC Peashooter at Ratho is 5a but in your book its 3+? Isn't that a huge difference in grade?

 Dr Toph 19 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

> Hi again. Sorry, just a quick question- on UKC Peashooter at Ratho is 5a but in your book its 3+? Isn't that a huge difference in grade?

I suspect that when we brought out the second edition, the route had just appeared so we went with the stated grade of the FA. I will go and re-climb it, but I think that the consensus grade will end up somewhere in between (4+). Thanks for noting it, and glad you enjoying the book.

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Dr Toph:

It's on my desk and is quickly becoming a major source of distraction 😋 Will be putting it to good use tomorrow at Benny Beg.Thanks Topher, I really appreciate you clarifying Peashooter grade 🙂👍

 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 19 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Probably the best thing you can do for vrag maintenance in the central belt is to pop a pair of secateurs in your bag. Have them to hand as you approach /leave the crag and cut back undergrowth that creeps into the path and onto routes. Don't be shy with stuff like brambles, they grow metres and metres in a year! 

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to JamieSparkes:

Got a pair in the house so will add them to my kit. There's a big bush on the path at the top of Ratho towards the top out of Monkey Puzzler as you approach from the tower/stairs. Really dangerous as it forces you right to the edge of the drop. Would I get into bother if I got rid of it do you think?

1
 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 19 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

One thing to bear in mind is that the roots of the bushes are often the main thing holding the embankment at the top of the crag together. So by all means, cut a path through so you can avoid the edge, but try to avoid completely removing them as it ends up with mud pouring down the crag in wet weather. 

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to JamieSparkes:

Just a trim then 🧔✂️

 S Andrew 21 Jun 2020
In reply to kwoods:

> Bolts aside, the greatest limit on climbing in the central belt (majority trad) are overgrowing routes.

And the dreaded Pirri Pirri Burrs at Cambusbarron.

 tlouth7 22 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

If anyone in Edinburgh wants to contribute to a central belt crag then please feel free to go up to Corbie's Craig and kick some brambles. There is now a clear path around the base of the crag, but some traffic will help to keep it prickle free.

 Mike-W-99 22 Jun 2020
In reply to tlouth7:

Did you actually climb anything?

Took a look once and decided the jungle bashing to find the routes looked enough of an adventure.

 tlouth7 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Mike-W-99:

No jungle bashing required now! I did Slab and Tower (Diff) last night, a very nice route on decent rock. Haven't fancied the harder routes given my lack of practice in recent months, but might go do Retromingent Ridge (Mod) soon.

 Dr Toph 14 Jul 2020
In reply to tlouth7:

Many thanks to whoever put all the hard work in clearing the gorse and brambles from Corbies. Its quite a reasonable approach now. Its still easier from above (down the west side) as coming from below is quite loose underfoot.

Slab and Tower, Retromingent Ridge, Queazy Slab and Winchat are clean and un-effected by vegetation

Other lines still require a degree of gorse bashing on-route.

 tlouth7 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Dr Toph:

I'm glad you enjoyed it, how was the rock on the harder routes to the right?

 Dr Toph 14 Jul 2020
In reply to tlouth7:

They are generally fine until half-height, then require care. La Folie was probably the worst offender with a big block underfoot and then loose holds around the crux. Queasy slab requires care higher up. Burning Bush just needs secateurs.


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