UKH

Hi all. What's horseshoe like for climbing? 

I'm sure I heard some saying it's really polished and not that good anymore? 

I'm very outdated regarding the place.  I went about 8 years ago and would never go back there.  Such a tip .  

If sport climbing on dirty falling down choss is your bag you will love it. 

I'm sure that other people really think it's great. 

Thanks, I'd heard such rumours and it must still be the same so no boxes being ticked to get me there. Was suggested by a buddy so thought I'd ask around. 

IMO the main wall has probably the best selection of routes between 6B and 6C in the Peak.

Not sure how much this tells you about Peak district sport routes in that range.

Generally slabby, quite technical and a bit run out in places.

The rest of it is a mixed bag.  Not a place to go on a hot sunny day.

Thanks, may be best to leave it and have a mooch if ever passing by? 

If it costs you absolutely nothing, it might just be worth having a quick look.

This is correct, The main wall is great vertical(ish) technical climbing in the 6b to 7b range.  Many are polished but this does not detract from the quality of the climbing too much

The more recent routes at lower grades are mostly poor with some loose rock and have become very polished indeed and are mostly responsible for the recent bad press the crag gets

As others have said the main wall has some very good routes which are polished.

The upper tier ABOVE the main wall has some good easier grade routes that are well bolted and aren’t polished.

But beware of the other stuff!

Chris

The best parts of the quarry are owned by the BMC. All those bolts are new and very good. The quality tends to increase with the grade so the routes at 6c and over on the main wall are quite solid and surprisingly rough and grippy when the conditions are right. 

The most traveled routes are obviously going to be the easiest ones so that is why there is much negativity about the place.

I'd rather be enjoying the winter sun on the Main wall over an indoor one.