Headpoint routes with nice anchors

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 tomthetraddad 13 Mar 2023

Hi!

I'm getting pretty keen into the high-mid E headpointing (working a few between E5-E7) and would love some recommendations for routes in this kind of range that have nice simple anchors at the top for ease of set up.

Most of my climbing is in the Yorkshire/Peak gritstone and in North Wales (mostly around Pont-Y-Pant when visiting parents).

Thanks in advance

14
 gazhbo 13 Mar 2023
In reply to tomthetraddad:

Nesscliffe 

 Jimbo C 13 Mar 2023
In reply to tomthetraddad:

I don't think you'll get specific recommendations. Absolutely loads of routes have simple anchors. You know what the tops of most natural grit crags are like?

 UKB Shark 13 Mar 2023
In reply to tomthetraddad:

Have you considered redpointing? Maybe skip a few clips if that’s your thing 

3
 henwardian 14 Mar 2023
In reply to tomthetraddad:

You don't need simple anchors. After the first day of working a route, just take out the anchor without dismantling it. Leave the sling/static rope + gear combination all connected and next time you are back, you can slot everything back in in 30 seconds.

I would say the much more important concern is picking a nice route to climb if you are going to be spending quite a bit of time on it.


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