Grade Debates ahoy

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 dinodinosaur 05 Jul 2022

https://darth-grader.net/ my mate sent me this, seems pretty accurate (apart from at the cuttings)

 AJM 05 Jul 2022
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Which ones didn't work at the Cuttings, and what did you put in for them?

OP dinodinosaur 05 Jul 2022
In reply to AJM:

A lot of them were over what the guide says like breathing method 6a M 7B+ N 6a = 8a/8a+. Hall of mirrors turned out correct as did fighting torque though. There are sandbags everywhere I guess. 

Edit: obviously this is all academic and the tool is designed to help give grades for people who are new routing 

2
 AJM 05 Jul 2022
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Garbage in, garbage out, right? (Not saying your inputs are, more a general observation on models like this)

I've not been on either of them for years, but I managed to get HoM as 7b+ or 7c and FT (the left sequence, where your RH is in the line of the bolts) as 7c+/8a. My grade calibration could be well rusty, mind you.

I've not done or really tried Breathing Method but had more commonly heard the boulder crux quoted as 7B which then nudges it down to 8a.

None of those seem that far out, in all fairness, for a simple model. I thought you were going to be suggesting things 3 grades or more away from guidebook!

OP dinodinosaur 05 Jul 2022
In reply to AJM:

I've heard BM touted between V7 and V9 (probably depending on how much you get on with small holds).

I was being fairly tongue in cheek about the cuttings as it's well loved (and hated) as a bit of a local sandbag crag to me. But you are right being only one grade or so out using such a blunt tool isn't actually all that much. I'm quite surprised how accurate it actually is 


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