UKH

Looking for good first E4s in the lakes, any suggestions ? Preferably safe ! 

Only one soft touch I know of, One Step Beyond (E4 6a). Great route, not safe throughout but has a peg above you at the hard bit. 

A popular one I haven't done but don't think is too hard for the grade is Grand Alliance (E4 6a).

Grand Alliance is one of only a handful of E4s I did, and the only one in the Lakes, but I would agree it probably isn't that high in the grade, as far as I can tell. You could certainly fall a decent distance in places, in terms of safety, although on the main crux it would be onto the really good wires that are shared with (or close to, I forget) Prana.

If you want something classic as well as ok for the grade the Grand Alliance suggestion is on the money (less so One Step Beyond!). Other worthy contenders are Dry Grasp, Holocaust, Tumble. I always remember Running on Empty being ok but looking at the comments it might not be that easy (maybe it’s because I seconded Top Gear on the same day which is a whole lot harder) but there is plenty to do on the crag regardless and Boy Racer is meant to be at the softer end (for the Lakes!) but I’ve not done it

Holocaust is easy for the grade and as far as I remember pretty safe at the crux. On the other hand the crux is an odd move; if doesn’t seem difficult but some people find they fall off.

jcm

Bitter oasis. I did it when it was e3, with rhe peg runner which was quite obviously useless. Felt tough at e3, but never doubted the grade. 

Holocaust and tumble would make a great first and second lakes E4s. And a grand day out. Id start with tumble personally. 

I did BO after the peg had gone and I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone after something ‘Preferably safe’

From what I remember Nagasaki Grooves is relatively safe with a technical crux. I’m not sure what condition it is in these days

I don't think I've got too much else to add, as the other suggestions are so good. Grand Alliance is amazing and fits the criteria perfectly. Whilst I'm aware it's not E4, Prana - which is just next to it - is pretty punchy at E3, hence good training for getting pumped!

Tumble and Holocaust are a perfect partnership, as they're both immaculate, but both very different. The former is sustained, while the latter is cruxy. The only thing I'd say about Tumble is that the gear is quite fiddly and requires a bit of thinking to get in. It is safe, but you have to work to make it safe (if that makes sense).

I personally found One Step Beyond and Bitter Oasis pretty straightforward, but neither are what I'd describe as conventionally 'safe', but are good to get on when you're feeling confident. I would have said the same for Shadowfax, but having had a quick scan of the logbooks it seems that most people found that quite hard for the grade, so maybe I was going well back when I did it!!

Have fun with whichever you do end up on!

Another recommendation for Tumble from me. It was the first E4 I did, and still one of my most memorable trad leads! It's safe but bring micro wires.

Many years ago I went to Dow for the first time and led Tumble, Holocaust and Pink Panther. Probably one of the best days out climbing I can remember. 

Wheels of Fire (E4 6a) could be an option; I don't recall it being overly traumatic in any respect.

There's one at reecastle whose name I forget. Steady and safe. Top gear at raven threshwaite I seem to recall being OK too. 

That was the one I was going to suggest too, didn't feel too bad at the time and never really got on with Lakeland rock.

Inquisition is a reasonable shout but I’m not sure it’s worth more than a star, Top Gear on the other hand is very top of the grade. Wheels of Fire is another very reasonable one 

Hi Craig

Yes; have done very few Lakeland E4s [I counted eight] but Wheels ... is probably the easiest. Strontium Dog (E4 6a), of which I can't remember anything, used to be E3 so maybe that's in the mix as well - although it's a long walk and doesn't appear to attract any stars. The Medlar (E4 6a) is safe enough where it matters but has quite a tricky crux.

By chance I've done 4 of the contenders mentioned above in the last year (all on the more relaxing end of the rope I should add). Some pics and beta here (maybe in order of increasing difficulty, but it'd be very much a question of preferred style):

Grand Alliance - https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/06/19/grand-alliance-for-fathers-day/

Tumble - https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/08/28/destination-dow/

Boy Racer - https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/06/28/raven-crag-threshthwaite-cove/

Top Gear - https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/08/18/you-know-its-a-weird-summer-whe...

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom 

Thanks everyone, it looks like i've got plenty to go at, lets just hope the weather stays dry so I can attempt them all!!!

A few more suggestions:

Marble Staircase (E4 6a)

Powerglide (E4 6a)

The Grip Trip (E4 6a)

All really good. Marble Staircase has good gear, the others less so.

cheers,

George.

What state is dry grasp in these days? That was a good one 

I believe the E4 is due to the FA stating that the peg that protects the hard bit is not as good as it appears. 

Free Falling (E4 6a) a soft touch and well protected too. But not a "Classic" 

Go get ‘em Aled

I did that yesterday and found it to be bit eliminate. It seems logical to step right into the scoop at the top, I found myself there without really thinking about it and it's only about 50cm to the right but it didn't feel E4 that way.

I think if OP is after the number and a confidence boost then it's a good one to do as a stepping stone to the lakes E4s(and the climbing on it is just quite fun) and would probably get E4 if it was in Pembroke anyway The routes in the lakes aren't usually giveaways for the grade so I find it hard to step into a new grade there. Sahara (E2 6a) is as hard as any E3/E4 I've done elsewhere haha 

Well that's how I used it! Maybe it is E4, it's so long since I did a route of that grade I'm not very well calibrated. It's got good climbing and it's debilitatingly well protected.

I'm not too familiar with Pembroke but it's probably Reiff E4!

I did free falling two weeks ago, nice climbing and really safe. No idea about grade but I can agree it's a good stepping stone/ confidence boost !