In reply to dinodinosaur:
One of the difficulties with this question is that once you've done one big pitch (particularly on lead), you're going to be at least a bit cooked (unless you're a trad wad), so the next pitch will feel harder than it would be if done as a standalone route.
Positron is a good example of this as the first pitch is solid E3, the second pitch is a short but hard E4 and then you get the headwall pitch which would be E4 on its own but feels E5! It's also a pitch which doesn't feel too bad if you're fit as there are no particularly hard moves, just no real rests either and you've got to place gear in a pumpy position (so loads of 5c but arguably no real 6a moves). 7a is perhaps a bit too much but somewhere around 6c+ sounds about right.
Hunger I found desperate, particularly because the lower crux is blind and a bit dynamic (not my forte). Took a few falls there, one to try again! The upper crux is punchy as well but I did that ok. You do get a decent rest before the upper crux, which helps a lot. Definitely 7a, may be 7a+ but perhaps it was just not my style. Seconded the second pitch and found it pumpy as hell, partly because I was boxed and partly because it actually is pumpy as hell! Not as hard as the first pitch but still 6c+ or so.
Citadel is very cruxy. I thought it was solid E3 to a pretty much hands off rest, then a short but tricky crux, followed by a few ok moves to the belay. Took me ages to work out the crux but you can venture out onto the face to have a go and then retreat back to the rest. Always hard to grade cruxy pitches but I'd say 6c+ or so but would be 6b+ without the crux. Again, it's far from over after that as the second pitch is a lot harder than it looks! A good 6c on its own. If you're feeling masochistic, the second pitch of Graduation Ceremony just to the left is similar but harder, 6c+ I guess.#
Dinosaur I found pretty hard, even though the crux section isn't that long. Poor feet + slopey pinches = pumpy! There's a reasonable rest before the crux but somehow it still managed to get very pumpy very quickly. Fell off it twice before getting it third go - another one to try again... 7a seems fair.
Mammoth is the most brutal of the Main Cliff beasts I've tussled with. It's fairly straightforward up to the crux section, then you're into some evil spanned out jamming (the scars took a couple of weeks to heal...), a non-rest and a long steep section by which time you're totally boxed. Took me ages to fight through the jams so I was pretty tired by the time I got to the non-rest but even so I doubt I'd have onsighted it. At least it's fairly safe to fall off, as with all of these routes. 7a+ or harder but some wad will be along in a minute to say it's only 6c! After all that, the second pitch is no pushover at solid E3. Some say the Direct is not much harder - may be I'll find out one day but need to have another go at the original version first.
Energy Crisis - only seconded this one but it felt pretty solid and a hell of a lot harder than it looks from the ground! Slopey pinch and awkward jam lovers, step this way! It's not very long so perhaps not quite 7a but 6c+ for sure.
Having said that, I think Pembroke is a lot more 'sporty' than Main Cliff, which has weird holds (slopers and pinches galore), evil painful jams, sometimes fiddly gear, some suspect rock and the infamous 'grip' factor. Hence sport grades kind of underestimate the effort involved...
Post edited at 22:05