/ Gimmer Crag or Gray Crag

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gallonj 24 Oct 2019

I am hoping to manage a couple of days climbing next week if the forecast remains reasonably good. 
 

Could I get views on whether climbs on either Gimmer Crag (Langdale) or Gray Crag (Buttermere) are likely to be in condition and pleasant (ie not too cold on fingers) - or would we be better sticking to low valley crags (eg Troutdale Pinnacle etc)?

Mark Eddy 24 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

A friend was up on Gimmer this week / weekend, on a sunny day but it still looked freezing and he confirmed there was defo a nip in the air ;-) They were well wrapped up too!

Black crag gets afternoon sun, so best have a late start is heading there. 

gallonj 24 Oct 2019
In reply to Mark Eddy: Thanks Mark 

Darron 24 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

The forecast valley level for next week is 8C. Half that at crag level?

Defo cold fingers territory!

shantaram 24 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj: I’d go for quick drying valley crags at this time of year. Preferably in the sun. 

C Witter 24 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

Not sure, but check wind speed and direction before deciding. Castle Rock south and Raven Langdale are safe valley options, but I've climbed at both Gimmer and Grey Crag in December and February and they're really reliable crags. Gloves and a jacket for belaying and you'll be fine! Just avoid pushing your grade!

1
SteveX 25 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

I would suggest the Duddon, Wallabarrow crag is a perennial winter favourite, but there are also some new crags being developed in the area, and it seems to get more favourable weather than many other parts of the lakes. Great pub to, but hey that does not matter

Michael Hood 25 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

If going to Gimmer (or anywhere for that matter), make sure you choose routes that are facing the sunshine.

You would have thought this was obvious but I've seen ropes having an uncomfortable time on The Cracks in the shade.

Simon Caldwell 25 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

Of the two, Gimmer has the advantage that it's not too far to escape to Raven Crag if it proves too cold high up. From Grey Crag the nearest quality valley crag is not quite so handy.

Dave Garnett 25 Oct 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> If going to Gimmer (or anywhere for that matter), make sure you choose routes that are facing the sunshine.

> You would have thought this was obvious but I've seen ropes having an uncomfortable time on The Cracks in the shade.

Yes, the start of NW Arete can be particularly damp and unwelcoming.

Baron Weasel 26 Oct 2019
In reply to C Witter:

> Castle Rock south and Raven Langdale are safe valley options, 

Castle Rock North could be worth a look too. Overhanging Bastion was superb when I did it this summer, although it'll take slightly longer to dry because the lichen has grown back during the years it wasn't climbed. 

Jon Stewart 26 Oct 2019
In reply to Baron Weasel:

> Castle Rock North could be worth a look too. Overhanging Bastion was superb when I did it this summer, although it'll take slightly longer to dry because the lichen has grown back during the years it wasn't climbed. 

It'll be fully soaked.

John Kelly 27 Oct 2019
In reply to gallonj:

Massive punt

but I think Gimmer Chimney (faces south, sun in am, expect some seepage) or Main wall climb Gimmer (sun a bit later, dryer) will be ok tomorrow given predicted wind direction/speed and sun.

Raven should be warm and dry 

All if the forecast is correct

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/la22/day1

Post edited at 18:17
Dave Cundy 27 Oct 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Indeed.  I had a nosey round the base of the rockfall, mid September.  I was surprised at how much sodden moss there was on the rocks around the start of Harlot Face.

Cold air has less capacity to absorb evapourated moisture, so it ain't going to dry anytime soon.


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