Getting psyche back- any advice?

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 Hans 28 Dec 2021

So - currently I'm struggling to enjoy climbing as much as I used to, and I'm not too sure why. Has anybody had a similar experience, been kind of jaded with the entire thing? If so, how have you gained your momentum again? I've instructed for a long time, and now have a different job. Climbing used to be a load of fun, and I genuinely enjoy teaching the basics but in the process I think I massively neglected my own development and now I just feel worn out! Such a shame. Any advice? Articles I should read, videos etc? I'm happy to give it one last good shot at trying to enjoy it again. 

 mrjonathanr 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Go somewhere inspirational. Gogarth, Cloggy etc

1
 HeMa 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Take a break, do something completely different… and then come back again with new found drive…

also if stopping all together, limit the amount of climbing, and pick lines that are both doable and inspiring.

at least both have worked for me, in climbing and in other sports as well.

1
 kevin stephens 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Take up sea kayaking 

 jkarran 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Just go with it, take the opportunity to do something new. You'll find your way back to climbing if it matters and if not, you'll have new interests.

Jk

 Misha 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Try new climbing areas or styles of climbing, eg sport rather than trad, etc. There’s no one size fits all solution. 

 JIMBO 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

I've been through a number of changes in style/type of climbing which keeps the love alive... when sport got boring I did trad and then bouldering and then mountaineering and then some snowy stuff and some peak bagging, etc... and then it's all gone full circle a few times! 

 Alex Riley 28 Dec 2021
In reply to JIMBO:

It sounds simplistic, but do what you want to do and don't feel guilty about it. Everything else will fall into place. I did a little blog post about this at the start of the year;

 https://www.moelwynmountaineering.com/post/motivation

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 CantClimbTom 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

I fell partly out of love with rock climbing (although continued to enjoy scrambling as much as ever) for about 20 years but drifted back towards it again. Sh1t happens. Try to go back to some of the routes etc that originally inspired you. Also look at the mental training aspects like reducing fear of falling etc because if you can get that fixed you are only left with the positives and you can relax and enjoy

 Alkis 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

I can only speak for myself, but what worked for me was: I *eventually* figured out that while my psyche was super low, forcing it was fruitless, so I just stopped climbing outright. I did different things instead, cycling, walking etc.

For me, the problem with climbing while lacking psyche was that my performance was non-existent and getting worse yet there was still continuity from the time when I could climb my best. As such every time I would go out I would just "muh" my way around totally dispirited. Taking time completely off reset all that, when I got back to it I had zero illusions about where I would be, so things became fun again.

As soon as I spotted a glimmer of enthusiasm for climbing coming back to me, I milked the bejesus out of it, I was forcing 4-5 sessions a week. The idea behind that was to shift back to the mindset of climbing being the norm of my life. It worked. I can't quite explain what triggered the change, I went for a session with a friend of mine at a time when I was particularly happy and it felt just right.

 mondite 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Definitely do something different for a while. I fall in and out of love with various things which has the great excuse of why I am crap at all of them.

Depending on your personality then doing what you love can be counterproductive since it becomes just the job. It seems highly variable but I know as many people who got bored with something once it was their job as those who absolutely love it as the job.

 Robert Durran 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Alex Riley:

> It sounds simplistic, but do what you want to do and don't feel guilty about it. 

What? Even bouldering?

 olddirtydoggy 28 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

A clue might be in the best experience you've had on your profile.

Cragging, grade ticking, routine, habit, completing lists, teaching people who have no intention of climbing again, chasing qualifications and going to the same places kind of dulled my enjoyment a little a couple of years back. Personally I need a project to really sink my teeth into and often it's the company and adventure attached to such trips that get the twinkle back in the eyes.

A poster above mentioned sea kayaking. We decided to take that up and thought about crossover. We paddled out to the islands off the coast at Co Donagal in NW Ireland and spent a few days climbing sea cliffs. The adventure and the company just gave us such a buzz. We ended up swimming, hiking, sea kayaking, mountaineering, wild camping, bird watching and I'm sure there was something else we did........ oh yes, climbing!

What's the 5 best experiences you've had on rock and why did they switch the lights on? Oddly the best ones for me are not the hardest lines I've done. Good luck.

Post edited at 22:49
 Jon Stewart 29 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

> So - currently I'm struggling to enjoy climbing as much as I used to, and I'm not too sure why. Has anybody had a similar experience, been kind of jaded with the entire thing?

Certainly have.

> If so, how have you gained your momentum again?

I haven't regained what I used to have, but I am glad I didn't give up climbing. It takes a pretty high dose for me to get a buzz these days, but when I do, it's still a truly meaningful experience that I can't get any other way. I got that buzz of on a couple of quite adventurous routes in Pembroke; on the beautiful grippy and scenic mountain rock of Scafell; and in the cold winter sun at Slipstones. I can't access these experiences unless I stay in the game by keeping climbing, so I keep on with it, even though much of the time it's pretty unremarkable and at times frustrating. 

 Exile 29 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

I've realised over the years that I can become a little too goal focused in climbing, and I need regular 'escapism' in everyday life for balance. I think these have influenced my suggestions / experience.

When I've got jaded with climbing I've:

Stopped. (Taken up cycling and fell running at different times)

Changed focus (When I came back after stopping did a lot more head pointing and red pointing on local crags, which I'd never done before, and was time efficient with a young family)

Changed focus. I got a bit frustrated with not climbing 'as hard as I should' one Spring so got stuck into rehearsing and completing a big rock route link up that Summer

Changed focus. Got stuck into consistent training (lockdown) which when I came out of it meant I was climbing harder than ever in my late 40s, and was very motivating

Change focus. When I've had enough of pulling hard (for me!) on sports routes go to the mountains and / or a new area

REALLY important for me to keep enjoyment high -

Don't judge 'success' in terms of routes done but quality sessions / fun sessions out

Climb with good friends - climbing (and running) is my social life - I look forward to catching up with people as much as going climbing / running

Have goals I work towards. This may be a 'hard' route or grade, for me, but could equally be a big classic Ive not done or going places Ive not been

Have (a variery) of adventures - mix it up (linked to above)

Go to nice places. Take time to notice stuff

 GDes 29 Dec 2021

Get into a new style of climbing that you're really rubbish at, and enjoy being a beginner on a steep improvement curve. Slab climbing, cracks, ice or mixed, weird esoteric loose and wet stuff, 

 wbo2 29 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans: I would say 'try kayaking' but only because after 20 minutes in a kayak I'm bored of it and want to go climbing.

I liked a lot of Exiles advice.  I wouldn't give up entirely , but I would focus on what I wanted to do for a while, and not think too far into the future.  I like bouldering for this as it's low fuss, social, and you can do as much/little as you want at that point in time.

OP Hans 29 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

Thanks a lot for all the replies from everyone, some interesting points esp regarding sea kayking. I actually did a week of this with PyB about three years ago, and really enjoyed it though felt absolutely knackered by the end. Worth another go for sure.

Someone mentioned what are my best 5 experiences on rock - they're all the times when an unexpected epic occurred with great mates on the end of the rope. By epic I mean climbing through the night, lost the guidebook 'no idea where we are' sort of thing. North Wales in particular for me has always been the go-to place for an amazing adventure.

I'm going to take up some of the advice given by everyone and hopefully post back with a story of a route I actually enjoyed climbing sometime in the New Year. Seems like a decent little project to kick things off.

Cheers!

 Mark Bannan 30 Dec 2021
In reply to Misha:

Good point! 

Hillwalking, scrambling and mountaineering are other useful options.

 peppermill 31 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

> So - currently I'm struggling to enjoy climbing as much as I used to, and I'm not too sure why. Has anybody had a similar experience, been kind of jaded with the entire thing? If so, how have you gained your momentum again? I've instructed for a long time, and now have a different job. Climbing used to be a load of fun, and I genuinely enjoy teaching the basics but in the process I think I massively neglected my own development and now I just feel worn out! Such a shame. Any advice? Articles I should read, videos etc? I'm happy to give it one last good shot at trying to enjoy it again. 

It's hard when climbing has played such a huge part in your life. As with other posters all I can really do is talk about my own experiences, hopefully you'll be able to pull something from my ravings....

I've felt similar since the first lockdown restrictions lifted in 2020. Still super psyched for outdoor climbing but my interest in training at my local climbing wall has been hovering around zero. Nothing to do with the climbing wall, route setting is better than I can ever remember it, same friendly super social atmosphere etc, still a great place to spend a few hours. Prior to the pandemic I'd be there 2-3 sessions a week for the better part of a decade.

I think it was simply a craving to be outside, I just ran with it and got into other things for a while like running, walking cycling and mountain biking.

It's easy to let climbing consume you to a point where it's unhealthy, as some of the posters at the start of the pandemic when we had to leave it for a few weeks demonstrated.

Do something else active for a while and you may well start to miss it and suddenly the psyche is back. Basically don't try and force it! 

What also helped for me was restricting social media to friends and family. I find Instagram especially has a habit of sucking all the magic out of climbing (and travel in general). 

 PaulJepson 31 Dec 2021
In reply to Hans:

I sort of fell out with climbing after the first lockdown. Was going to the usual local limestone (bristol) and felt like I was climbing for the sake of it. It took going to the Dewerstone (for the first time) to make me remember why I loved it. I'd recommend going somewhere new and different, preferably with a very different rock and/or environment than you're used to, and having very low expectations. 


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