UKH

Funky Gibbon (HS 4c)

Symonds Yat

I revisited this climb, which was one of my first leads, 15 years ago,  this weekend and decided to back off. The block which you gibbon on has definitely moved away from the main wall of the cliff, I suspected movement last time I visited 6 years ago. But this time it has definitely moved, protection in the cracks is now a different size and the crack around the block is almost fist sized, plus the block carries vibration unnervingly well when hit.

Using my camera I could see that it was almost entirely detached with only a few small rocks bearing its weight. The overhang formed by the sentrybox seems to be at least partly supported by the block and so I climbed back down. Thought I should report this as geological time includes now and the block in question probably weighs over a tonne on it's own.

I climb a fair bit of mountain rock, sea cliffs and sea stacks and I'm not averse to loose rock but this one looks like it's trying to race an unlucky climber to the Saracens head for end of day beers.

If anyone knows who to report this to please let me know. 

I remember this being one of the routes I was taken up or top roped. Became an early party piece. When I was settling into that grade at leading I gave it ago and was amazed how much the block had moved. That will have been 20 years ago. Not surprised its moved further. That whole cliff is moving towards the river!

Thanks for the update on that. I've been running the crag clean up the last few years and know the area well. I'll take a look tomorrow and report it to the Foreatry Commission who are the owners of the crag. I'll post an update accordingly. 

Regards,

Sven

Nice one Sven. It'll be interesting to know what the conclusion is. I couldn't really justify the risk as I'd done the route and there were loads of kids top roping on neighbouring routes.

Hi all, I've had confirmation from Sven that the block is indeed in a dangerous state -  a sign may be in place (I will be there tomorrow and will check and put one up if not). Until the block goes or is helped on its way (which clearly won't be happening at the weekend) then you are strongly recommended to avoid this route and its immediate neighbours

Rick

Thanks Rick. It's a real shame. Give me a message when the block comes off and I'll be on it asap. The climb was introduced to me by my father as 'really difficult' in the 60s and 'too gymnastic' for him. I remember the first time I pulled round the block, I was pleased to find good holds. But then I had more modern gear and the advantage of being able to climb overhangs indoors to practice. Odd he chose not to do this one as I've followed other climbs he mentioned, up to HVS, that were much harder and scarier.

Hi Rick

We were at the Yat on Saturday and the was a notice up at the cafe saying climbing at the Introductory Rocks was banned - didn't realise this would affect the entire sector? There was also one about the Peregrines on the White Wall which was also on the board by the Loo's but the one regarding the Introductory Rocks was not?

Just in case you need to know??

Hi

I'm aware that the Forestry Commission have put up signs saying the Introductory Rocks are closed, and I spoke to one of their staff today - apparently the site is being assessed today or tomorrow and I'll speak to them again tomorrow. I'm hoping to persuade them that it's only the immediate vicinity of Funky Gibbon that needs to be closed off - the buttresses further right (which are harder and used predominantly by recreational climbers rather than groups) are in no danger at all from the block, but I can understand their over-cautious initial reaction. Firstly because the area around FG is heavily (indeed predominantly) used by groups ( including children), and secondly there is the risk if a really big block falls of it going all the way down to the river. I'll update when I know more.

Cheers

Rick