UKH

Hi,

I would like to do some easy trad climbing around Madrid, something around difficult-Very difficult.  I have been checking La Cabrera, La Pedriza o Patones but everything looks sport and I cannot find anything reliable about trad routes and grades. Any recommendations in books or webpages will be really appreciated!

I have used this site previously which I found helpful: https://cuadernodeescaladas.com/categoria/clasica/

In my very limited experience trad routes typically have bolted anchors and sometimes some other fixed pro along the route.

Thank you so much for the information!!

I am also quite confused about the grades... this route, in theory is for beginners

https://cuadernodeescaladas.com/croquis-normal-risco-de-los-principiantes-l...

but something around IV-V in the Grade Conversion by Rockfax is around a VS!!  Do you have any experience climbing that routes and what will be your translation to British trad grade?

THANKS!!

I have done this route and it certainly felt very V.S. to me with an awkward wide crack

To be honest I can't give an honest opinion of that route because I had never really climbed a crack before, and found it absolute hell. 

I just remembered that this scramble was very fun and probably equivalent to a D grade: https://eskalamandra.es/product/via-valentina-al-yelmo-la-pedriza?lang=en , which you might enjoy.

There was also an easier route on Pared de Santillana with many mushroom holds, but I think it also had an awkward crack to start (a common theme!)