/ Dry HVS/E1 mountain routes, Cairngorms?

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peanuts 04 Sep 2019

Has anyone been out to any of the main cliffs in the eastern cairngorms recently, know how dry some of the routes have been this year?

I am trying to make a plan for Sunday, with a day of dry forecast all of Saturday preceding it..

Cyclops HVS or King Rat E1 on the Central Gully at the Dubh Loch was ultimately my goal, but I know these are slow drying...

so I thought Sand Pyper direct HVS on Longbow Crag at Stag Rocks, which I have read is very quick to dry, but never been there personally, was a reasonable alternate

& I have stumbled upon The Magic Crack HVS on Aladdin's Butress at Coire An T-Sneachda in the book which is also intriguing..

Any advice appreciated, or similar alternative route suggestions..

Michael Gordon 05 Sep 2019
In reply to peanuts:

The Needle, though I suspect you've done it. The Exorcist on Hells Lum I believe is also quick drying.

Drexciyan 05 Sep 2019
In reply to peanuts:

Dubh Loch central slabs very wet last week, won't be any drier now. King Rat roof takes a while to dry too. I'd definitely look elsewhere.

The other routes you mention would be better or check out Sputan Dearg, it's probably the quickest drying of the Cairngorm mountain crags.

ScraggyGoat 05 Sep 2019
In reply to Drexciyan:

Agree Sputan is quick drying, but Met Office summit temperatures are 2 to 7 degC, with 20 - 30mph SW winds......so Sputan and other high up crags will be a bit chilly.

peanuts 05 Sep 2019

Thanks guys,

Amethyst pillar at Sputan Dearg then perhaps, seems to be of a god enough quality to make it into Gary Latters Selected Climbs list & the photo of the final pitch looks fun.

Temperature a little concerning thought indeed, Sand Pyper is maybe better with the shorter walk in and 200m less altitude.

andyinglis 06 Sep 2019
In reply to peanuts:

Prepare to be underwhelmed......

Wicamoi 06 Sep 2019
In reply to peanuts:

Eagle Rocks, just opposite Creag an Dubh Loch, are a bit lower, south-facing and quick drying. A Likely Story (HVS) is the classic of the crag, and a very fine route of three pitches.

Pina 06 Sep 2019
In reply to Wicamoi:

It's good but not sure I'd specifically walk in just for that...

peanuts 09 Sep 2019

Done Magic Crack, it was a soggy wet first pitch but well worth it for the upper two pitches, particularly the last. Was a bit cold in the morning, should have started later


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