UKH

Any beta on how to find pinnacle gully at chair ladder? Know where ash can gully is but want to try terrier's tooth also. 

Rather a distant memory. I think you can also get to Terrier's Tooth, at least at low tide, from Ash Can Gully. Looking towards the sea Pinnacle Gully is further left with the large Pinnacle lower down it.

Do you have a guidebook ? As far as I remember the descent is down a really well worn path to the left of the coastguard station (looking out).  The pinnacle itself is very obvious once you head down there.  As said above, you can use most descents at low tide, though.

I'm not sure what the start of terriers tooth is these days after the rock fall, but I suspect you'll need fairly low tide.

Terriers tooth (Pinicle) gully is the next one over from Ash Can gully. Go left as you approach the base (scramble down), then when your at the bottom go right to Terriors Tooth (directions as looking out to sea).

Its all on the guidebook, PM me and I'll send you a photo.

Thanks good info. I have most of the guide book just not the descent bit. 

Apparently u can traverse in to start at the second pitch. Better than nowt I guess. 

Pretty much the whole first pitch has gone (the steep crux wall to the ledge). Unless it has cleaned up massively in a year, what is left is shitty loose slabs with poor protection and very much NOT recommended maybe VS 4a. You can travese in above this but it's not trivial and what's left is nothing like as good compared to other routes on the crag. How this is still on the logbooks as 3 star is beyond me.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/chair_ladder-218/terriers_tooth-20...

Utterly agree, tried this after cruising Bishops Rib and found it tricky and unpleasantly unprotected...well avoid 

I wonder if the person who disliked that can tell us why? I was enjoying leading VS and HVS the day I backed off this new direct first pitch... I am an obscurist so have led plenty of shitty loose stuff in my time but this was sold as a perfectly OK bold HS start to replace what was a delightful bold HS pitch which fell into the sea. It was not OK, it was terrible and I climbed something else rather than risk spoiling what had been a great long weekend, ticking multistar classics and obscure sandbag wide cracks, on a poorly protected chossy accident waiting to happen.