UKH

So we’re off to Bike Park Wales next week but want to stay in the area for a couple of days sport climbing. We manage to struggle up anything from 5s to 6c’s. Any suggestions for crags/routes we need to check out in the Merthyr area?

The Gap and Gilwern immediately spring to mind and are arguably the best in the area.

It's mostly trad near Merthyr. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/darren_fawr-10239/ is probably the closest but it's a pain to get to the base of the crag. Cefn coed would be nice but unfortunately climbing is still banned.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/navigation_quarry-733/ is good. Loads more crags available on https://swcw.org.uk/wiki/

I'd recommend Nav Quarry. My favourite of the south walian sandstone. Looks like Millstone but climbs quite differently (smol edges rather than cracks) and has some fantastic routes in the 6a-7a range (plus a few good trad lines). Largely slab climbing.

Black Magic (6b), Craxsploitation (6b+), Deus ex Machina (6c), The Relaxed Ladybird (6c), Crash Landing (6a), Mouse Trap (sport) (6b+) are all fantastic.

Nav has a nicer vibe than a lot of the grottier quarries too.  

Thanks. We’ll check it out - some mates have been and had good reports. 

I'd second for Navigation!