Climbing in Italy

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 JRZ 16 Oct 2021

I was in Italy about 15 years ago climbing in Trento/Arco area and also farther north in the Alps. I'm thinking of going back in April 2022 and am wondering if anyone has been there in the last few years and if you have any recommendations send them my way.  I remember a lot of campers in Arco area, and love camping but don't remember if there was a central bathroom area, or what... any information helps!

 20kilos 17 Oct 2021
In reply to JRZ:

I was recently in Italy for three weeks in Finale Ligure, Arco & Cortina. 
 

If you’re looking for camping Finale, had a climbing focused ‚campsite‘ parking lot that’s Base Camp Cucco that’s cheap, basic and close to a lot of sectors. Didn’t do a huge amount of climbing here but there’s a bunch of decent/newer stuff buried around the polish.

Arco, we stayed north of the town in Cavadine. Theres loads of wild options around but an amazing Campsite too ‚La marroche‘ simple, well maintained. Climbing wise, we barely went south and stayed north of Arco. La Gola being one of our favorite spots. The whole area is stunning.

The Dolomites, there’s loads of sport in the Cinque Torre area. We did the classic Via Miriam which was a wonderful trad line (used a guide as, well we’re not trad climbers). Probably best views of the alps.

 tjekel 17 Oct 2021
In reply to JRZ:

wild camping around Arco is frowned upon by both landowners and climbers due to the sheer number of climbers, as well as the risk of closure of areas. if you do so, get well away from the main tourist centers and crag parking lots.

April and Cinque Torre don't mix well due to snow cover.

I tend to recommend the Trieste area (including Osp 2km behind the Slovenian border) for this time of the year. Osp has the Vovk campground, more or less climbers only. some more campgrounds on the Italian side of the border. One campervan site more or less accepted at Napoleonica. Water availlable, no toilets.

The area has some 2000 bolted climbs, most single pitch, in all grades.

Easter holidays will be incredibly populated at Arco. 


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