Climbing brace post ACL/MCL injury

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 Rena Ahmadova 08 Jul 2022

Hello, fellow climbers!!!

I have suffered Grade 2 ACL and MCL tear about 5 months ago.. Not as a result of a fall, but a repetitive move projecting ..Opted out of surgery, and did PRP shots instead and physio.. Feeling much better, but knee is not 100 % yet, however I can climb no problem up to 6b+ (the grade at which I won't fall)... Now about falls.. no doctor can really answer if I can fall, and whether should I used some kind of brace to prevent re-injury should I fall? I would really love to go back to harder grades and projecting (not as hard, but where the fall is a possibility).. Anybody here in the same situation and can recommend a brace?

Thank you

Rena

 JIMBO 08 Jul 2022
In reply to Rena Ahmadova:

I had a complete rupture of acl, partial mcl and associated meniscus tears 😢 and had surgery.

I climbed pre and post op with a DonJoy articulated brace... there was no way I could fall... the knee was so unstable just walking... but with the brace I managed top-roping quite hard 7s, easy leading 6s and bouldering without falling.

The brace was very helpful to keep going but was clunky and got in the way on more vertical technical stuff. Hard to hide under trousers! Lots of stares and questions at the wall... although not from the staff 🤔

Hope you recover well... keep up the physio

 donrobson 08 Jul 2022
In reply to Rena Ahmadova:

Hi I had a grade 3 tear ACL with cartilage tear, my consultant examined the knee under anaesthetic and felt there was enough stability even without the ACL so didn't need a reconstruction.

I got back to climbing rock and ice and had very little difficulty though 30 years later definite arthritis in knee.  I agree with the other poster - push your physio exercises.  My best action in recent years has been to get back to cycling, definite benefit for the knee.


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