Churnet bouldering advice

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 Michael Porter 17 Dec 2021

Never been, is it worth a look this time of year?  Thinking Virgin wall, Wright's rock areas but open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance

 Si dH 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Michael Porter:

Sometimes, yes. You should leave it a couple of days after rain to let the rock dry out though, if it gets wet.

Some crags are much faster drying than others. Wright's is exposed and a pretty good bet. I've only ever climbed at Virgin in summer but from memory it is fairly clean and it's only just off the path, so probably worth looking at.

 ebdon 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Michael Porter:

Do yo have the guidebook? It's quite good at saying what the best time of year for various crags is. Wrights normally has something dry (be aware of the new access situation) although does suffer some seepage. Same for gentleman's. In high humiditys and low winds (I.e. now) condensation can be a big problem. Also be aware the rock is quite fragile in places. Wrights especially is beginning to show signs of ware and a few classics have lost holds this year due to increased traffic.

 ianstevens 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Si dH:

I thought you just drove up from London, covered everything in chalk, pointed your Makita fan at the holds for a bit then it becomes immediately dry. Or is this to the case? Seems to happen a lot there.

 Offwidth 17 Dec 2021
In reply to ebdon:

I hope climbers are not leaving any of their 'ware' behind given the new access arrangements!

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=5412

Thought it worth highlighting this as it would be terrible to lose access to Wright's. 

 Gripped 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Michael Porter:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/inas_rock_and_alton_cliff-21700/

I remember this crag being good and it is worth a visit. You will enjoy Atlas if you bring a rope!

 mark s 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Michael Porter:

All I can say is make sure it's properly dry. 20 years ago the chutnet was a pleasant barely touched place. 

The rock has been hammered by people climbing when they shouldn't. Wet or damp sandstone crumbles .

It can get condensation on the rock but after rain it's best to just avoid it and go a bit further to exposed grit. Churnet is a summer venue to be fair. 

In reply to Michael Porter:

Thanks for everyone’s replies and advice 

 SDM 18 Dec 2021
In reply to mark s:

> Churnet is a summer venue to be fair. 

I wouldn't agree with that. Some areas in Churnet can have excellent conditions in the winter when the rock is bone dry during dry spells.

You just have to pick very carefully regarding when to go and which buttresses to go to, to ensure that they are completely dry.

But you are definitely right to say that Churnet is being trashed by people climbing on things that aren't completely dry. The damage that has occurred to some areas/problems in the last ten years is shocking.

Post edited at 10:41

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