Chimes of freedom (Mowing Word) loose block?

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 Mowglee 28 Jul 2020

Climbed this today and was surprised by the massive block wedged under the roof. It looks like a slight shove would send it down to wipe out the belayer. There was a bit of chalk on it today as well! Has anyone climbed it recently and able to comment if it's always been like that, or perhaps has moved? There was quite a bit of loose material around it which makes me think it's not long for this world, and if it's dislodged by a leader it's hard to see how it wouldn't cause at least one fatality.

It was my first trad route in ages so maybe I'm just being even more of a coward than usual.

In reply to Mowglee:

... I first did Chimes of Freedom in 1997 and it was loose then... it'll go one day though...!!!

 HannahC 28 Jul 2020
In reply to Mowglee:

This was wobbling in summer 2018. Tied into a hanging belay being told this massive TV sized block directly above my head was loose and the climber would “try” not to use it was not exactly inspiring. I only just refrained from pointing that failing could be the last thing that happened to either of us! Fortunately it can be avoided with relative ease. 

In reply to HannahC:

I remember a series of big blocks to get out from under the roof to the lip where you make a really bunched rock up and left to get standing. At 6'4" it felt hard for 5b so much so I convinced myself I was doing it wrong or missing something. This resulted in probably 30 minutes of retreating to rest,  pulling up through the roofs to the lip etc before finally committing and doing the move with a massive pump!! I spent an age there and remember lots of blocks but nothing loose? This was 2012ish. Great route!! Hopefully it will have a good outcome! (Safely trundled/cleaned up)

OP Mowglee 29 Jul 2020
In reply to Richard Wheeldon:

Wow. I'm surprised that as a supposed 3* route it's not been dealt with before. I don't really have the gear to sort it this week but happy to help out if anyone else is around and wants to see a big splash! 

 HannahC 29 Jul 2020
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

The loose block you would use for your hands as you traverse right and feet as you traverse back left. I suspect it only moves if you apply pressure in a certain direction/point on the block as we read back through the UKC comments and not many people mention it. 

I've heard that rumour about hard bunched moves moving left. It amuses me greatly at 5"2. Karma perhaps  


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