/ challenge: second ascent anyone?

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jeffmearns 12 Oct 2018

Stanhope Deanpe Dean")]Dean Martin (f6A)


potentially the best outdoor sports climbing destination in the north east? Stanhope Dean

teh_mark 12 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Blimey, it's so far away that it uses a different grading system! How much are flights?

jeffmearns 12 Oct 2018
In reply to teh_mark:

dont panic! if u r french the grades r there in the climb descriptions... no worries

Post edited at 23:59
gravy 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

If you want traffic and grades checking rather than simply self promotion grade them properly - the sport grading norm in the UKC is French grades rather than YDS / US trad grades - but you already know that.  You'd look like a dick giving E2 5c to a boulder problem in the US so how do you think you look here?

deacondeacon 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Why are these bolted and not trad routes (like the other quarries in the area). Genuine question, not shit stirring. 

Fiend 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Challenge: Write with capitals and proper grammar so people can actually understand the descriptions, use conventional grades that the rest of the UK and Europe use, put a proper topo up, etc etc. 

No offense but if you're wanting to promote your crag, at least make sure the information is comprehensible and useful to potential visitors.

jeffmearns 13 Oct 2018
In reply to deacondeacon:

the protection would be really sparse at best to be honest...  thats not to say they couldnt be climbed that way but most would be pretty bold...   also   in this area there is virtually no sport climbing.   we are also trying to contribute to the local economy (ie   keep the pubs, cafes and b&bs going)   i suppose its been sitting there for a very long time and nobody has bothered, so hey, why not?

jeffmearns 13 Oct 2018
In reply to gravy:

self promotion?   as for the us grades.... does it really matter that much to be a little different?

jeffmearns 13 Oct 2018
In reply to Fiend:

hmmm...  tend not to follow a colon with a capital letter...   just saying like   

gravy 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Ok - so you've got no consensus, no respect for local traditions and you've not consulted the local community, the climbing community or the BMC etc. 

"we should bolt to help the local economy" - bolting as a theme park? nope this doesn't work

"there is no sport climbing here" - probably because it's a trad area

"its pretty bold" - you got scared? maybe you can't climb trad?

"it sat for a long time, why not?" - there could be many reasons why not including it was not discovered until now.  However it's usual, polite even, to consult with the local area reps and climbing community before bolting partially because people have strong feelings about this subject.

Are you simply asking for your bolts to be chopped?

I notice you've also given a sport grades to a trad line - have you actually climbed these clean? or are you claiming top ropes as well? Given the general fuck you attitude I wouldn't actually be surprised!

Post edited at 14:23
andyman666999 18 Oct 2018
In reply to gravy:

Just playing devils advocate here - he did state “we” when referring to the local economy. If it is on his/the developers private land then he doesn’t need to ask anyone to be able to do whatever he wants ! (I guess as long as planning permission is not required ). 

I doubt that this is the case, but that’s my tuppence worth. 

RD 20 Oct 2018
In reply to gravy:

It might be more appropriate to go and have a look at the quarry before commenting.

It's an old quarry - circa 1940 and there's not that many gear placements. Midway up the routes is a band of poor crumbly rock about 10 inches deep. I've bolted two routes that are 7bish with the crux at the top. No gear past the first bolt and round 15m high. Trad? - I don't think so.

All your comments are wrong.

You should try to be more supportive of the hard work that goes into developing new crags.




tmawer 21 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

From the photo's it looks like a nice little venue and will probably prove popular. 

Michael Gordon 21 Oct 2018
In reply to gravy:

> I notice you've also given a sport grades to a trad line - have you actually climbed these clean? or are you claiming top ropes as well? 

All of your comments are pretty harsh, but this one is just strange. It's quite possible to estimate a sport grade by top-roping a route.


taddersandbadger 21 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Thanks for the link Jeff, and for extending a selfless invite for the rest of the climbing community to share the fruits of your labours.

I am not from your neck of the woods but following the link it  says this: ”A southwest-facing quarried limestone SPORTS crag in development...... there are 16 BOLTED routes so far, with the rest being easily top-roped. (donations will very probably be accepted!)”

So somebody has added a new sport route to a sports venue that has 16 sport routes already there.

He may well have done so, with the permission and blessing of the land owners, in consultation with the local access rep  (if there is one) and been in contact with the Crag moderator, as well as bolting said new route to a really high standard.

So far ukc , have criticised the grading, climbing style,  and ethics.

Thanks for sharing your new route Jeff, hopefully somebody will actually go and climb it and give us some feed back as to the quality of the line, quality of the equipment, grade and how it sits with the other 16 sports lines at this developing sports Crag.





RD 12 Nov 2018
In reply to taddersandbadger:

All the routes have been recently added. Currently around 25+ fully bolted with more to come.

It's fairly obvious that nothing has been climbed before. I led a FA (after cleaning it) and pulled off a massive hold and barely avoided falling off so no chance of trading them. We are trying to clean the loose rock as best we can.

Most of the buttresses have a band of poor rock part way up, however the rock below and above is perfect. Forget crappy Derbyshire quarries. 

For Northerners not wanting the 2 hour drive South to Yorkshire I very much recommend you visit. All feedback appreciated.

RD 17 Nov 2018
In reply to RD:

More new routes have been added - and a new buttress - Lost Sheep Buttress.

Pics have been added and some rough topo's.

Geordie 18 Nov 2018
In reply to RD:

Well done for the topos ------- and before Monday too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WJM 20 Nov 2018

We had a good day up there on Saturday. Some good rock and some which will clean up with some traffic. Quite sheltered and faces the right way so rock   condition was very good considering the mist and damp of the previous day. More routes seem to appear each week .

It was a pleasant change to have a 50minute drive home after clipping bolts compared with 2 1/2 hours from the Peak.



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