Just noticed a comment in the logbooks that there’s a brand new cemented in peg on the crux of Citadel (E5 6b)
Why?! Since when have cemented in pegs been acceptable on Main Cliff? It’s not Wintour’s Leap! The crux of Citadel is perfectly safe even with the old peg gone - there’s good gear on the face which can be placed from the rest before the crux and you’d be falling into space anyway.
Come on people, let’s observe some standards...
Incidentally, the rusty peg just before the horizontal flake on P2 of Citadel is no more. I was hanging off the flake belaying on Trunk Line yesterday, put my foot on it and it just crumbled. Somehow it didn’t completely break but it’s pretty caput. Not that you need it as there’s more gear than you can shake a quickdraw at, if you can hang on to place it!
May be it’s one in, one out...