Can someone help diagnose my injury?

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 ReubenClimbs 08 May 2020

Hi, this is a long one but here goes. Basically almost 2 years ago now I was out bouldering on rock (I had been climbing for about 2 years now, 1 year avidly) and I kept trying to do this move for a climb. It started with a pinch in each hand and terrible foot holds, then a big full reach with my left hand to a pocket which you catch with your middle 2 fingers once, then quickly pop and readjust to more of a side pull in it. I did this a number of times before admitting defeat on it. At no point did I feel the typical injury thing and have a "pop" of a tendon ect. It was sore but you know after a hard session you are always a bit sore so I shook it off. A week later my fingers were still really sore around my A2 tendons in both fingers but foolishly I went climbing in the local gym just to ease myself at it and I was sure they would be fine. Anyways I came away not long after being on the wall just with them hurting to much to climb. I went to the doctor and said I was really worried about my tendons and they didn't scan it or anything just said it would be a sprain and to wait a few weeks. After a few weeks it was still sore and I went back to the doctors still no scan and just said to wait it out longer. I went to a private physio and they thought it could be an avulsion fracture, with this information I went back to the doctors and they gave my a x ray. The results showed up nothing so I got booked in for a ultra sound. Fast forward about 2 months I had given up all climbing and the ultra sound showed nothing wrong. I was then given an MRI and over a year and a half later nothing wrong showed up in the MRI. Now at this point I have been trying to do tendon glides and physio as best I can but my pain never changes. I am always hyper aware of my "damaged" fingers, the pain gets worse some days or when I use my hands a lot for griping anything. It's like a crushing pain in my A2 area or in my joints its like a crushing stabbing pain. 

Medically there is nothing they can find wrong with my fingers but there has to be something causing me pain? Has anyone got any idea or have anything similar ?

 toad 08 May 2020
In reply to ReubenClimbs:

Hyperparagraphitis?

3
 marsbar 08 May 2020
In reply to ReubenClimbs:

Are you anywhere near Derby?  They have a specialist hand department at one of the hospitals there.  

If you can afford to go private this chap is apparently good, I've never needed to use his services but I know of him through paddling.  

http://www.hand-surgery.co.uk

 Siderunner 10 May 2020
In reply to ReubenClimbs:

You could try emailing Volker Schoffl for advice - author of “one move too many”. 

My wife had a 3 year saga with her wrist with no progress - he directed us towards a surgery option that resolved it, having spotted possible damage on her scans that were missed by the other health professionals we dealt with in the UK.

I would also buy Dave MacLeods book on injuries, has useful rehab advice. I’d also be submerging the hand in a bowl of water with 3-5 ice cubes in it, maybe 3 or 4 times a day, for c. 5 minutes. This improves blood flow (usually feels warm and “glow”ey for a while after). It sounds like you’ve gone beyond home rehab though...

Good luck, hope you can get it sorted.


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