Bolts on Silverdale shore

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 Lankyman 30 May 2019

Does anyone know anything about the bolt lower offs that have appeared on the shore both north and south of The Cove? They are good quality stainless ring bolts and I first noticed them back last year on the neat little wall round the corner from the cove towards the shore car park nearer the village. There are no bolt runners so it would seem to be trad then lower off. Last year I also saw cemented and cleaned holds in the little cleft called Red Rake at the side of the cove. Les Ainsworth denies all knowledge .....

 danm 30 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

Are you talking about Jack Scout Cove? Been a couple of bolt lower off's there for about 25 years.

 Mark Harding 30 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

I've also noticed them and seen some young climbers top-roping from them.

 Mark Harding 30 May 2019
In reply to danm:

> Are you talking about Jack Scout Cove? Been a couple of bolt lower off's there for about 25 years.

No, these are in a different location. Silverdale Cove is off Cove Road which links Silverdale to Arnside (the road with Holgates Holiday Park). The cove itself has a small but very distinctive cave. Some of the bolts are about 10m north of  the cave.

 C Witter 31 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

Odd... As far as I remember, the rock there is of mostly very poor quality and the cliff is only c.7m high. The Brick used to state as much, and advise against climbing in a sensitive area given better climbing close by. I also remember that there are generally a lot of trees along the top... so not quite sure why bolts are necessary!

 Mike Stretford 31 May 2019
In reply to Mark Harding:

> I've also noticed them and seen some young climbers top-roping from them.

There's yer answer!

1
OP Lankyman 31 May 2019
In reply to C Witter:

You need to take a closer look. Some odd sections are of very good quality. The tallest bit (between the cove and the carpark) is excellent and you'd definitely want a rope. I'd had my eye on it for years but could never convince anyone to get on it. Small holds, small wires and hard moves, you could get at least two or three quality lines up to the loweroff. Bolts are a sensible way to avoid topping out and potential environmental impact.

 C Witter 31 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

It seems I do! It has been a while since I've walked along there.

 Mark Harding 31 May 2019
In reply to C Witter:

> Odd... As far as I remember, the rock there is of mostly very poor quality and the cliff is only c.7m high.

The bit north of the cove certainly fits that description. There has been a lot of cleaning there, as well as the installation of belay bolts. My first reaction was, why has someone gone to all that effort for a few moves on so-so rock? But like you I need to check out the other bit (south of the cove) that Lankyman mentions. 

 LouN 31 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

Slightly off topic, but how accessible is Jack Scout Crag?  Thinking of going this weekend.

Thanks

lou 

 C Witter 31 May 2019
In reply to LouN:

The base of the crag is pretty accessible if you sneak through the nearby campsite (which is officially not allowed), or a slightly scrambly descent down a hard to find overgrown path protected by a barbed wire fence that is ideal for adding extra ventilation to your super-breathable new softshell. As for the rock itself... well... Some of it will be very accessible after you've pulled it off the cliff; the rest is nicely held together by enormous yews and myriad other forms of vegetation. It's a lovely picnic spot... Unfortunately, the climbing leaves much to be desired.

Post edited at 17:26
OP Lankyman 31 May 2019
In reply to C Witter:

> Unfortunately, the climbing leaves much to be desired.

No way! There are some really enjoyable climbs here. True, the upper parts are veggy but the lower sections are very sound with quality moves and excellent gear. Bolt lower offs mean you don't have to top out. Some of those lines that do are fine. There's a recent E2 that has two bolts in the top section. Brant's is quality jamming/bridging which always stuffs the unwary.

 LouN 31 May 2019
In reply to C Witter:

Thanks for that, think it might not be the best place for this weekend. Think we need to have a look at it first before we take our 10 year old!

 C Witter 31 May 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

With a little effort, I can think of a few worse places to climb; but, almost anywhere is better! The rock is brittle and vegetated. Brant's is one of the few good lines; the Onedin line also seems good, but ends in vegetated nightmare. All are disappointingly short, and lowering off one bolt to avoid a grassy top out compounds this. Trowbarrow, the Fairy Steps, Warton, Farleton, Hutton Roof and Woodwell are all better crags and just around the corner... Nevermind the Lakes or Yorkshire nearby!

 Jim Lancs 31 May 2019
In reply to C Witter:

When we were further developing JSC in the 70's, the area underneath the crag was beautiful, sheep cropped grass like the best kept lawn or bowling green. In the afternoon or evening sun, the warm rock and cool grass probably allowed us to imagine that the place was a better venue than it appears in its muddy state today.

OP Lankyman 01 Jun 2019
In reply to C Witter:

It's a shame you're so dismissive of what's a venue with a lot to offer. I've climbed on all the places you've listed as superior (and many more) since the 70's, never once thinking I was wasting my time at Jack Scout. It does have some drawbacks but show me a crag that doesn't. Trowbarrow has sections far looser than anything at JSC and way more polish. If you've been to say Twisleton and then moved on to say Malham does that then make the former a complete waste of time? You're not comparing like with like. Have you seen the Assagai Wall lately? It's starting to sprout more and more valerian than I've ever seen before (just like many cracks on Wartons Upper and Pinnacle Crags). Presumably, when Assagai gets too choked with veg to climb you'll dismiss that as well? I once climbed at Crag Foot with someone whose day was spoilt by finding a little dust and the odd daisy growing out of the start of Left Foot Eliminate (HVS 5b) - easily dealt with - but he just couldn't cope and he went home and slated the place online. What a joke! He also hated Farleton - just couldn't handle steep goe-y limestone so to him they were all crap.

 C Witter 01 Jun 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

You're right that it's a beautiful place and I've had pleasant days there; and I really do agree that, just because a place is 'minor' doesn't make it not worthwhile. Red valerian (or the odd daisy) is a bit easier to contend with than extensive yew, though! And the vegetation at Jack Scout really doesn't compare to the vegetation at Trowbarrow. But, mostly I've just had some pretty sketchy moments there and now have no desire to go there except for a picnic! I'm happy to accept that it probably comes down to the fact that you're more experienced and therefore can cope with loose rock and veg and steep grass topouts better than me!

 C Witter 01 Jun 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

In other news, I've always fancied going to Crag Foot, but never managed to convince someone.

 Dave Ferguson 02 Jun 2019
In reply to C Witter:

best sea cliff in Lancashire!


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