/ Bolted multipitch routes UK?

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L Goblin Sniper 13 Sep 2019

I need a few routes to dial in my technique using bolts to begin with because I don't have trad gear yet. Please help.

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springfall2008 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

Space Tourist at Cheddar Gorge is really good 3 pitch F6b+

There's a few simple two pitch routes at Woodcroft quarry (wintours leap) if you just want to practice multi-pitch

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David Barlow 13 Sep 2019

LLanberis slate has some, particularly if you link multiple levels in Australia. Of course there's also Twll Mawr  Twll Mawr but that's possibly harder then you're looking for.

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HakanT 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

There are a couple of options for linking pitches at the left end of Wyndcliff Quarry. Take a look at The Big 60 The Big 60 (5a) for example.

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Iamgregp 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

Go to Europe, UK sucks for multi pitch sport, especially at a moderate to easy grade that's good for learning on...

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TobyA 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper: there are some pretty awful ones on the back wall of Horseshoe, but they'd probably convince an ardent leaver that being part of the EU isn't so bad after all.

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Philoosh 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

There a re few smaller multi-pitch / 2 pitch routes on the Swanage coast.

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Mick Ward 13 Sep 2019
In reply to springfall2008:

> Space Tourist at Cheddar Gorge is really good 3 pitch F6b+

Totally agree but... as the OP hasn't got trad gear yet, I'm guessing he hasn't got a trad head either. (Apologies if this isn't the case.)

From memory, the bolts run out on the top pitch and there are some crappy old pegs semi-buried in the grass. Think I only clipped one and just ran it out to the top. Felt more like E2 than 6b+. (And there are lots of people who happily climb 6b+ but would go to pieces on many E2s.) Also, given that you've done two pitches to get there and may be tired and/or intimidated?  Would be hard to dog and it's a long way down.

Mick

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scott titt 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Philoosh:

Could you post a couple of links to the UKC database?

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L Goblin Sniper 13 Sep 2019
In reply to HakanT:

thank you for your response.

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L Goblin Sniper 13 Sep 2019
In reply to David Barlow:

Thank you for your response.

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L Goblin Sniper 13 Sep 2019
In reply to springfall2008:

Thank you for your response.

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beardy mike 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

Castles made of sand, if you stand in a sling on the first crux as indicated in the guidebook, is IMO more straightforward than Space Tourist. All the pitches on ST are comparible in difficulty and sustained, where as castles made of sand is distintly cruxy. The same can besaid for stone cold fever - they are much more "sporty" routes, fully bolted and have a fantasticout there feel to them.

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Sl@te Head 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

A ticklist of all the Llanberis slate multi pitch sport...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=644

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springfall2008 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Totally agree but... as the OP hasn't got trad gear yet, I'm guessing he hasn't got a trad head either. (Apologies if this isn't the case.)

> From memory, the bolts run out on the top pitch and there are some crappy old pegs semi-buried in the grass. Think I only clipped one and just ran it out to the top. Felt more like E2 than 6b+. (And there are lots of people who happily climb 6b+ but would go to pieces on many E2s.) Also, given that you've done two pitches to get there and may be tired and/or intimidated?  Would be hard to dog and it's a long way down.

Fair point, I forgot about the top pitch, we abseiled out after the second pitch as it was starting to get dark.

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Andy Moles 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

> I need a few routes to dial in my technique using bolts to begin with

I may be misunderstanding what you mean by 'technique', but you may not learn a whole lot more for trad by doing multi-pitch sport than you would by doing single-pitch sport. A bit of stance management ropework maybe, but that is not hard to learn compared to other aspects of trad.

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Philoosh 16 Sep 2019
In reply to scott titt:

Start here and work your way up and down this crag. Some are just one long 40 mtr pitch but this isn't. Benny is a good, if VERY dangerous outing! Do not attempt if your a newb.

Jericho Groove (HS 4b)

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L wbo2 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Philoosh:  I wouldn't call that sport...

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jimtitt 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Philoosh:

Why are you telling the first ascentionist about one of his routes? Why didn't you read the OP?

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kevin stephens 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

I'm sorry to come over a bit negative but attempting a rare UK multi pitch sport climb will be useless in dialling in your technique for UK multi pitch trad.  For one thing the technical climbing difficulty for the UK's easiest multi pitch sport will be much harder than for entry level multi pitch trad, if you want to work on this aspect without trad gear then better to top rope some trad routes; some will dislike my comment but every climber has started in this way, seconding or top roping.

The techniques for getting into multi pitch trad are much more than the climbing moves but include managing double ropes, setting up belays, changing over at stances, judging, placing  and removing gear etc, and most importantly confidence and tactics   These days with readily accessible walls it often takes new trad climbers quite some time for their climbing grade to approach their wall or even sport grade.

Getting trad gear should not be an obstacle, you don't need to spend out on cams etc.  A rack of wires and Rockcentrics plus a couple of slings will enable you to make a good start on a large number of brilliant V Diffs in Wales and the Lakes or elsewhere, from this you will rapidly work up the grades

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pasbury 16 Sep 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I don’t think that’s negative at all. Quite the opposite!

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NottsRich 17 Sep 2019
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

Ratho climbing centre in Edinburgh had a bolted two pitch indoor route last time I looked.

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In reply to Andy Moles:

Yeah so I have done too much single pitch and me and my climbing partner have been practicing set ups for multipitch but we haven't been able to do it on a climb because we don't have multipitch routes which don't require trad gear. So we are looking for some climbs we can do the set ups without trad.

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In reply to Mick Ward:

Thank you for your response yeah we don't have any trad gear yet but we are eager climbers with plenty of rope and plenty of basic gear we know what we need to climb a bolted route but we cannot afford trad yet. Hence here I am. 

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In reply to springfall2008:

Thank you for your response I think me and my climbing partner would be looking for a slightly easier climb to begin with.

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In reply to David Barlow:

Yeah might be harder than we want to start with.

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Kevster 12:59 Sat
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

If you just want to practice, pick a crag with lots of bolts, where you can set up, sort your ropes etc.  Use several lines to give the bolts required to build a belay. 

I hate to say, sometimes just doing it for real is the better way of learning. And real pitches have length, which offers safety from both the ground and the possibility of high fall factors. 

Unfortunately multi pitch sport in the UK is not abundant and frequently hard enough to require those skills to be in place before setting off the ground. A high concentration is on the slate, for which topping out is not always secure.

I'd also suggest that multi pitch sport stances, trad stances, both in the UK and abroad are frequently very different in nature/ style. 

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GrahamD 16:01 Sat
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

Its a catch 22 isn't it ? you want to practice multipitch belays, presumably before heading off to do some multipitch climbing ?

In reality, if you can tie yourself to a bolt or two, that's all the technique you have to dial in until you get onto ground where you have to deal with hanging belays and the associated rope management.  IMO best not to overthink it and get out to wherever you want to multipitch and get on with it.

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TobyA 22:32 Sat
In reply to Goblin Sniper:

You haven't said where you are, but I guess the Peak is pretty central to most parts of the UK. So like I said last week, Horseshoe Quarry has routes that are set up be done in two pitches. They are on the sector called Chocolate Blancmange Wall. And whilst they're not great, they're not dangerous or anything and do have two bolt anchors at the half way point. So you can climb them as two pitches and then abseil them in two pitches. Chauvi's Slab (5c) and Excavator (5c) actually get a star each!  I've seen people practicing multipitch techniques on them before - last year I was chatting to some London climbers who were doing that before going to France or Spain to do sports multipitches. I can't remember what they did but they got in a right mess at one point, so make sure you plan ahead properly before trying your techniques out half way up a 40 mtr wall!

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