UKH

Hey up,

I was wondering if anyone could make some kind recommendations for a good valley base and good route options for a shortish trip to the Alps focused on rock routes?

The team is proficient up to E1 on UK rock, with experience of long routes at that grade abroad (e.g. 250m-ish), but only proficient up to about Scottish II/III on ice and snow.

Ideal routes would be long routes on rock with fairly straightforward approach and descent, e.g. perhaps glacier crossing and grade I or II snow slopes; multiple abseils and walking. Obviously... part of the desired adventure is that it is not simply cragging, but it needs to be within the capabilitiesof the team. Easier mountaineering routes would also be fun to mix in, though routes like the North Ridge and the Cassin Route of the Piz Badile are the sort of thing I have in mind.

It would be August! And cost is also a factor... :0 Somewhere slightly off the beaten track would be great. Also, I can speak a fair bit of Italian.

Many thanks in advance!

I would go for Ailefroide or La Berade. Good rock routes within easy walking distance in the valley and more higher up.

Ailefroide would be ideal if you predominantly want to clip bolts. Chamonix would give you plenty of classic trad on the Cham Aiguilles with either dry or easy glacier approaches: Papillons Arête (D+ 5c), Rebuffat-Pierre (TD- 6a+), Voie Couzy (TD- 5c), Rébuffat-Baquet (TD+ 6a) etc etc. There's also lots of bolted on the opposite side, the Aiguilles Rouge. The 'phriques make for easy access during a quick hit. Alternatively Cortina is a good base for trad in the Dolomites. Cham would always be my first choice. Wherever you go I trust you enjoy the heat!

South faces of the Badile / Cengalo / Torrelli , based at the Gianetti hut 

Thanks Andy. Cortina is great but keen to try classic Alpine areas. My understanding is Chamonix is a bit punishing on the wallet... any recommendations for best campsite accommodation? No worries if not.

I was looking at Courmayeur on the other side, but... you'd recommend Cham over the Italian side?

Ailefroide. A short stroll from your croissant and cappuccino in the camping to the foot of any number of great 10 pitch routes.

Or aiguilles rouges.

On my more recent visits I've always always stayed at the campsite up the valley in Argentiere - if things haven't changed it's got a nice relaxed vibe, little shop where you can order fresh croissants etc, regular visits from a pizza van and English-speaking owners if you don't have much French. An easy stroll to Argentiere which has nice bars and restaurants and a supermarket and not such tourist trap prices as Cham. Arrive early if you want to bag a shady tree! Although there's a bus to Cham, life is much easier with a car - eg for early phriques. It's only a short drive. The campsite used to be a fair bit cheaper than some of the central Cham ones. You can also save money with a multi-day chairlift pass if the weather's settled, rather than individual trips.

ETA: Camping du Glacier d'Argentiere

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions so far! Food for thought.

There’s a lot of rock on the Courmayeur side and it’s away from the hustle and bustle of Cham. No lifts though, so your legs will get a workout - but no lift fees either! There’s a guide book but can’t remember what it’s called. 

Lots of rock in Switzerland as well eg Salbit area but it’s not cheap…

I love your idea of a "straightforward approach" which is entirely not my idea of what that expression would mean!

I have a German friend who is great at finding random places to climb and I've been to loads of places with him in the Alps. But. I can't remember the names and my guidebook pile is 200 miles away, sorry! The thing is, there is just masses and masses of climbing in the Swiss, Italian and French alps that is not well-known but you are probably not going to find out about it on UKC because (without meaning to offend), the answers given so far are all very well known areas that are (in my experience) very busy with the exception of Salbit which I've not heard of and Courmayeur which I have not spent enough time in to know.

If you ask on UKC for winter sport climbing, you are going to get Siurana, Leonidio, Kalymnos, San Vito Lo Capo, etc. but there are countless nice sport places that are just not known in the UK and where you might have a much quieter and off-the-beaten-path experience, but it will be hard to elicit the names on UKC.

As you said you could speak Italian, I'd suggest asking the same question on whatever the Italian version of UKC is.

The amount of granite and limestone slab climbing in Switzerland is eyewatering but on a budget you want to make your plans very carefully. Basically buy all your food before you enter Switzerland and take your car and tent for some wild camping (the rules and enforcement thereof relating to wild camping in Switzerland vary enormously from area to area though, so be sure to check on that first.

Salbitjen is phenomenonal at that sort of grade. Some of the best granite you'll climb on. Other stuff nearby to make a trip out of it 

We did 2 weeks in Andermatt a few years ago and climbed loads of routes. Hardly saw anyone except on a honeypot AD ridge we did as a 2nd route one day.

One crag for example https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bielenhoerner-10774/ the hut does nice cakes too.