UKH

Dear community,

having recently moved to Bristol (with convenient  outdoors climbing being a great incentive) I'm now keen on regularly getting on some real rock.

Have had the chance to explore some of the usual suspects such as Wyndcliff Quarry, Symonds Yat, Brean Down and there's many more on the wish list.

In this post, however, I'm after suggestions for family friendly crags. As this forum has been super helpful in the past, I have high hopes of finding a crag that is:

-roughly within an hour's drive from Bristol

-offers trad up to S and sport up to 6a (with a variety of routes in the easy range preferred)

-single pitch options preferred

-approach of less than an hour's walk from a car park

-comfortable chillout area in close vicinity of the routes, no danger of getting your head split open by rockfall. Somewhere where non-climbers would happily lounge, Picknick etc

Extra points for:

-away from traffic/road noise

I'm thinking of places that offer spillout space such as Tryan Bach, Tremadog upper tier, etc., Just closer to Bristol.

Keen to read some suggestions and many thanks in advance.

In reply to Mattia:

Tirpentwys

In reply to Mattia:

Any of the Valleys Sandstone sport crags fit the bill, as well as Gilwern. They generally have really nice views (they tend to be cut high into escarpments around little valley towns). The towns are a bit rough but the views are lush.

Shorncliff is nice but scramble up to crag is not family-friendly and only really gets good at HS/VS.

Ban-y-gor is good but grades/style is stiff. You want to be operating at around 6a minimum really.

Thanks hms and Paul. Both places look worth a visit and can be combined with a visit to the Big Pit.

I wonder if there are any good crags closer to Bristol and/or in England.

In reply to Mattia:

Up to S and 6a? Does that mean you never intend on getting any better? 

There are a few decent quiet sport crags in Bristol but the grades don’t really go below 6b. South Wales sandstone is your best bet. And windcliff can take 30 mins off peak  

In reply to Mattia:

Consider Sand Point... easy single pitch trad, some technical superior grades, away from the traffic with a 15 minute walk in. A pebble beach and lots of grass for family chill out space and within 35 minutes from Bristol. Check tide times before going . And you may consider purchasing the new Somerset guidebook it features in (thus supporting an excellent local effort). You can find the guidebook at Dick’s Climbing, which is always worth a visit. Good luck, Jim. 

In reply to Mattia:

Portishead Quarry? Fairy Cave?

Some loose bits to be wary of but plenty of safe family space at the bottom.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Is there much easy climbing at Portishead ? Plus i thought the walking from the parking layby to the quarry on the road was more terrifying than the climbing !

In reply to GrahamD:

Yeah PQ is not a great suggestion. The grades are soft so the HS would be worth a look in for a severe leader, which you can then TR the nearest HVS off but other than that it's harder territory. 

Fairy Cave is a nice venue but a lot of the easier routes are very friable and rockfall can be a problem. If you go with the knowledge or someone who's been there lots, it would be a fantastic place for a family day out. I wouldn't just grab the guide and go in blind though. Again, grades are soft so look to HS.

In reply to Mattia:

Valley sandstone locations are variable from highly esoteric vegetated choss-heaps to absolute gems. At the grade range you want, I firmly stand by my suggestion on Tirpentyws. 

Ban y Gor would be a really bad idea with a family. The crag bottom path is narrow (very narrow in places) and the slope below it very precipitous.

Goblin Coombe has some lower grade trad routes which are good (but can be rather polished) and have super convenient tree belays at the top. However it is also notorious for ticks so you may need to dip your kids in insecticide on returning home!

In reply to hms:

Went to Tirpendwys today and it worked a treat. We arrived late in the afternoon and caught the sun as it was reappearing after a day of drizzle.

It's a comfy place to lounge when not climbing and the rock was largely solid one the routes we explored.

What's with the big fat white signs informing visitors that climbing is prohibited? Best ignored as outdated or does the landowner indeed not want climbers on site?

Cheers for the recommendation. 

In reply to Mattia:

Uphill now has a good selection of lower grade trad climbs as well as a few more sport. Parking only 200 m away. Great cafe. Beach 400m away. Almost as good as Sand Point and Brean Fort.

In reply to leland stamper:

Is there a recent topo anywhere?

In reply to PaulJepson:

Guide book out at end of year I am reliably informed. In the meantime. use UKC site and photos /old Cheddar guide.

In reply to leland stamper:

Oh so 6c is still the easiest bolted line? From UKC there isn't much in the OP (or my) grade-range.

In reply to PaulJepson:plenty of trad there for both of you. The sport is there if you look(just not on public websites yet). Ticks all the other boxes .Go and try it.

In reply to PaulJepson: There is a problem that south of Bristol there is a lot of rock to climb but not much lower grade sport outside of Cheddar until you get to the south coast.

i'm not sure how anyone makes the walk in to Portishead dangerous unless it's when crossing the road. It has a fair number of S/HS climbs but like FQC and Goblin Combe no lower grade sport. Goblin Combe has some great picnic spots if you like planes! Must mention Trym/Blaise - another great Bristol family institution- which is also in North Somerset guide

In reply to leland stamper:

If you park in the layby as described in SW Climbs and not directly opposite the quarry entrance, as it requests, you have a few hundred metres of actually walking along the main road.

In reply to PaulJepson:

We'll give Gilwern a try tomorrow. Any idea if the approach is pram-able or are we better off putting the little one in a baby carrier. The pram always offers the handy afternoon nap option (for the baby, unfortunately not for myself).

In reply to Mattia:

It's quite a steep path up a rocky/grassy trail. Wouldn't take the pram.

In reply to PaulJepson:

Top marks for family friendly climbing at Gilwern. thanks for the suggestion.

The routes on the Hindu Kush wall (proper random name ) are a bit hard for novices but it's more than me up by the views.